Replacing original fuse panel

[fishstu]

On my 2001 20ft Seacraft MA looking to replace the original fuse panel that is tucked up out of sight in the console.
I am mounting the newer fuse type Blue Sea systems fuse panel higher (much more accessible) in in the top portion of the console which opens. A question I have is - To minimize wiring I want to replace the original fuse panel ( that has a neg bus) with a connection block to maintain the neg side of the circuit and use the new fuse panel with out a neg bus for the positive side of the ciruit.

Does this sound a good idea ?
Also should I get a blue sea fuse panel with neg bus any way ?
Any idea and advice very welcome

[joshmon71]

think your okay with plan. however I wuld have a blue seas that has negative side, keeps the pos and neg side of the same wire run close by and cleaner.

[McGillicuddy]

I used a Blue Seas fuse block with pos & ground in the cabin and a bus bar near the batteries to complete circuits aft. Kept things pretty simple and easy to trouble shoot. The only long runs are the power and ground cables going to fuse block.

I really like this Blues Sea add-a-battery switch with automatic charging relay and starting isolator. Battery 1 starts and governs all engine functions & battery 2 is a Deka AGM that supports all other power needs. The upper part of fuse block is ground, the lower is pos. Both batteries are "on" and charge simultaneously while running, but they draw power independently of each other. Thus a bad battery can't drain a good one. If one happens to fail, you can still "combine" the circuits.

[Blue197320]

i really like that set-up. sounds like its pretty fool proof. from the way you described it, seems like you have a deep cycle and a starting battery. just turn the main switch on and starting battery only cranks motor and accessories are driven by the deep cycle?
in your second pic what is the little red cap to the left of the switch for?? i see on the blue sea website what it is but im wondering what your using it for.

[McGillicuddy]

Blue, Your interpretation is correct - starter and accessories draw only from their respective dedicated battery but share the charging function. I'm pretty sold on the system. The red thing is a 60A fuse protecting the cable that connects to the fuse block. I have one fuse on each battery, and the one at the switch. I think USCG requires a fuse within 6' of each battery and its switch. The one on the switch was suggested by Blue Sea. Probably overkill, but after reading the Calder bible, I'd rather smoke a fuse than burn a wire.

[fishstu]

Many thanks for the reply's - Great stuff

[FireEscape]

I used a Blue Seas fuse block with pos & ground in the cabin and a bus bar near the batteries to complete circuits aft. Kept things pretty simple and easy to trouble shoot. The only long runs are the power and ground cables going to fuse block.

I really like this Blues Sea add-a-battery switch with automatic charging relay and starting isolator. Battery 1 starts and governs all engine functions & battery 2 is a Deka AGM that supports all other power needs. The upper part of fuse block is ground, the lower is pos. Both batteries are "on" and charge simultaneously while running, but they draw power independently of each other. Thus a bad battery can't drain a good one. If one happens to fail, you can still "combine" the circuits.

Good to hear about the combiner available from Blue Seas. I have combiners on both of my current boats and have incorporated them into two others that I "improved" but the are from West (Yeah, someone else had to be making them for them). Other than some very expensive "yacht" grade stuff I had not found any others available. I am absolutely sold on the combiner concept but it has been a hard sell to others (less tech oriented) because they just never see them. Tried the isolators many years ago, they suck, and remembering to change the switch position to get both batteries charged leaves too much to chance.


Bruce