20 MA project continues

[jorgeinmiami]

Now I have primed the boat and I know I need to fill in some areas that have pin holes and some runs.
But my questions are what grit sandpaper should I use and should I put on another coat of primer prior to paint?

[Islandtrader]

I have been using 120 or 150 to sand down the primer.

I am just guessing on this...if your primer after sanding looks good and you have no thin spots or color showing you are good to go. If not shoot another coat.

I am sure someone that knows will chime in.

For pin holes use a air dry pit filler. And apply with a razor blade.

[jorgeinmiami]

I started to sand before the 2nd coat of primer and boy you can really see all the imperfections that you missed prior to the primeing. I also had a line that I imagine was either where the bottom paint met the boat color or from the boot strip.

Well took to that 1st, and next finish sanding with 150grit then on to the other side.

I think I'm going to paint just the very bottom in Mattahorn white prior to putting it back on the trailer and taking it to paint the rest. I think painting the bottom on a trailer in a spray booth would be a real pain to do. And if it does not come out perfect at least it's the part of the boat you don't see as much.

Boy do I wish I would have done all this in the winter time when it was a lot cooler!!!

[image][/image]

[RobertElmore]

Hummmm Glad you found it now and not later. LOL

[Blue_Heron]

I started to sand before the 2nd coat of primer and boy you can really see all the imperfections that you missed prior to the primeing.

Jorge,
I didn't see if you posted what brand of primer/paint you're using. Is it Awlgrip? Regardless, prep is going to be about the same for other brands.

150 grit paper is fine if you need to knock down some runs in the primer, but do the final sanding with 220 or 320. Anything coarser than that and you run the risk of sanding marks showing up in the top coat. And sanding of the final prime coat should be done by hand with a sanding block. If you spray on a guide coat, the final sanding should be more consistent. The top coat is going to show imperfections 100 times more than the primer, so go over it thoroughly on the final sanding.

From the Awlgrip application instructions:

The primed surface must be clean and dry. Achieving maximum gloss and distinction of image requires the primer be smooth sanded with 220-320 grit paper before topcoat application. Using a contrasting mist coat of lacquer primer as a "guide coat" is recommended. Smooth sanding until all the "guide coat" is removed indicates a texture free surface.

I think painting the bottom first is a good plan. It will show up any flaws in your prep work in a location that doesn't show. Then you'll have a better idea of how far to go on the rest of the prep where it matters.
Dave

[jorgeinmiami]

Sand by hand? If thats the case mine will be a 2013 model by the time I'm finished.

And what is a guide coat? Like I need more to do

I am painting the boat with Dupont Marine the sides will be Cobalt Blue and the rest Mattahorn White.
And here I thought that I was close....Silly Me!

[Blue_Heron]

...what is a guide coat?

Jorge,
Get a can of black fast drying spray paint and mist it over your primer. Hold the can about a foot and a half from the surface and spray when there's no wind. That's your guide coat. Then block sand until all the guide coat is gone. Sanding through a guide coat helps to assure you've sanded the entire surface. It also makes sure you've sanded it smooth because you can see it in the low spots even after you've sanded off the high spots.

You can use a DA or random orbital sander, but the swirls may show up in your top coat. You could try that on the bottom and see how it turns out. That cobalt blue is going to be a lot less forgiving than the white. Dark colors will show flaws in the prep work much more than light colors do.
Dave

[jorgeinmiami]

I did see a seacraft exactly like mine that was redone in the original light blue I have and I'm debating going original. Plus that Cobalt Blue needs a clear coat also which for a pro no problem but with a rookie it presents another step to mess up with. I still have time to debate it. But rolled boat on the other side and as soon as the sun goes down a bit it's back to sanding. I HATE SANDING

[Islandtrader]

One of the ways to tell how good your sanding job is to do the following.

After sanding rinse the section of with clean water look down the section done. If you like the way it looks great. If not keep sanding.

Water will imitate the way paint looks on your boat...it is all in the prep work. You can not make a paint job look good if the prep hasn't been done.

Check out page 4 of my link and you will see what I am talking about.

Don't give up now.

[jorgeinmiami]

Well with the budget going to the new place in the keys and with us going down every weekend the boat has been ignored pretty much. We want to remodel the unit and turn it from a 2bed 2bath to a 3bed 2bath and then buy furniture.
I'm going to have to "set aside" some $$ for the rebuilt.
Now I know that many here have done this to the wife any suggestions?

I did put her back on the trailer since the wife said something about it laying in the yard. This morning with help from 4 very strong teenagers I put the engine on the boat to start preping it a bit. I also rocked the engine and the transom has no flex so that was good.
I re-checked the compression and it was 115 to 120 (so I was bored) I then drained the lower unit oil and refilled it and then I found it leaking.
I imagine that the seal has gone bad

Now is that a complicated job or leave it when I take it to get it ready by my mechanic?

Besides that I want to paint the parts of the engine to make it look as nice as possible and the cowling and mid section/lower unit.