#1
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Scepter 23’
Do the potter built 23’ single outboard scepters have same problem with scuppers being too low. Is raising deck necessary?
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#2
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I'll be curious to know this answer too. I have a 75 Tsunami but it has a Mercruiser 350 IO in it. It is a wet boat when people stand in the corners. I would like to, and probably will raise the deck at some point.
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1971 Potter built center console. |
#3
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I think it depends on how you use your boat, and what you expect. The design of the "drains" that go through the bottom of the boat can allow seawater in, if a lot of weight is placed in the stern. I had an 18' SF and now own a 23' Sceptre with an outboard on a bracket. Both of mine were kept on a trailer with the drains unplugged, but I put plugs in when I put the boat in the water, so I've haven't had a "wet feet" problem. If water accumulates in the boat because of people climbing into the boat from the water, rain, etc., it's a simple matter to pull the plug and let the water drain out - it seems a little odd to have "a hole on the boat" but it works, as long as you don't have a bunch of weight in the stern at that moment - the water in the boat is above the sea level, and "water seeks it's own level" and disappears down the drain.
If you keep your boat in the water you wouldn't want to plug the drains though, as rainwater would accumulate. The design and original construction of the drains includes wood blocks that can rot and lead to water entering the boat too, so many guys have raised the deck and installed different style scuppers to resolve these issues.
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1977 23' Sceptre |
#4
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Where are blocks? Can’t get access without ripping deck up?
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#5
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Inside the hull wherever there is a drain. The block was to give enough thickness to use flared or threaded thru-hull fittings.
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1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#6
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And yes...most of them are buried.
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1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#7
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Very hard to get to without cutting deck. After I redid mine, I figured out a way to redo using pourable (Seacast) without cutting deck. It would have been much easier but I am not sure of strength difference. I did not raise my deck much - just 1/4" to make bond with new deck on old lips.
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#8
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Flexpat- can you walk us through the process of how you did that?
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#9
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Gimme a bit - it's gonna take some writing and drawings to make sense. Remember that I cut my decks for what I did, but figured out how I SHOULD have done it afterwards. Hindsight 20/20, it is what I should have done even with the decks cut out.
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#10
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Take a look at my build the boondoggle you can see in the pics were the blocks are. You may have to remove the back cap to get to them. I removed everything so it was easier.
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