23 CC rebuild - shine

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Hi Cheg:

“On my boat”, taking under consideration all I said about what I did moving things forward my water line is approx ½” down from the top 90 degree corner edge of my trim tab bracket that screws into the transom.

With a single engine on the transom or a bracket with flotation for twins it should be somewhere like mine.

With a twin engine configuration the 23 will squat more and that water line would be higher on the transom. That’s why “for me” if I were to ever go with twin configuration I would want to raise the deck.

The SeaCraft design is a VERITABLE Deadrise hull and it sits in the water different that a straight 24 degree deadrise hull does.

My boat sits on a bunk type trailer. The bow of my boat does not rest on the bow side of my bunks. There is a gap of approx 1-2” between the boat hull and the bunks. If this is true on my trailer it is also true sitting in the water.

This is part of the reason why moving things forward on SeaCrafts is important. It helps in the bow to stern teeter totter effect to be reduced to a minimum. This needs to be factored into you over all re building plan. If not, your SeaCraft might look Great, it might right grate in ruff seas but it will effect you sitting at the dock or drifting around in open seas.

This is why many guys want to close off the transom and put a bracket on But if you add too much weight then the next issue is all the scupper threads on this sight.

Think About It.



FellowShip

………………………….

Just for the Grins

Official 23’ SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner