Please critique my 23' CC Rebuild plans

[take a potter]

Well this time last year I thought I would be rebuilding my 1975 23' CC. Unfortunately, family health issues kept it from happening. Now it's time.

Was hoping some of you would chime in on my plan. Since I live in a fiberglass supply wasteland and I happen to be driving to central Florida in about 10 days, I wanted to finalize some materials and pick them up while I am down there.

I only get to use the boat for about 3 weeks a year but when I get the opportunity I am on it for about 10 hours a day. When it is home, it is kept in a building that I built specifically for it. So it stays dry and out of the sun. All that said, I can't justify spending more money than necessary to keep it going for another 55 years.

I plan on using Epoxy for everything, I have some experience with epoxy but have never touched Vinyl Ester, which is the only other thing I have even considered. Keep in mind I am in western Virginia so it will get cold for periods this winter. As to core materials all the big items will be marine ply, I may use some foam board to keep down weight on some boxes and such. I am going to enclose the transom including a curved top and put my existing 25”, becoming 30”(with 5” extension), 2 stroke back on for now. Down the road I fully expect the 2 stroke to be replaced, but I just can't get rid of an engine that has been so good to me. My plan is to build a bracket, ala Strick, or Hermco. Dual full flotation with platform. It will also get a new sole but will keep the step up casting deck. New sole will be raised 1 1/2” and scuppers will be routed out the back. The finish will be paint, I have used Tom's (RIP) Signature finish before and will use it again or something very similar. It was a dream to work with and has held up great. Console will get refreshed and raised by 2”, I'm 6'6” and the bottom of the t-top rod holders hurt.

This hull is unmolested other than at some point, the fuel tank was replaced. An additional 30gal tank was put into the box that is immediately in front of the console and a weir was added to the splash well, to separate the in floor live well from the splash well. The boat at some point had twins on it, so there are patches/plugs in the transom.


So here is the “plan”.

De-rig; Remove console and t-top as well as engine and transom transducers.

Remove transom core and stern cap / boxes up to the hawse pipes along with sole forward to the front of the splash well enclosure.

Grind around the outside of the current motor cutout and layup 2 layers of 1708, CSM out, and then mount a waxed piece of melamine board against the outside and roll out. While still wet, layup 1700 in the cut out to build to original thickness. I am thinking 2 layers may do it. When I mount the melamine I have some pieces of angle iron ready to add on to the outside to remove a bow if it exists.
That should give me a flat transom outer skin. Hopefully while still wet layup a piece of 1708, CSM toward the stern, across the inside wrapping to the sides and bottom by 6”, having ground original glass for the new glass to lay on.

After saturating ply, using a epoxy cabosil butter laminate (2) ¾” pieces and one 1/2” piece of marine ply into the transom, . All set in peanut butter to eliminate voids.

Laminate 4 layers of 1700 as inside skin tabbing 4, 7, 10 and 13”

When do I cut the holes for the scuppers? I was thinking of doing a water test before painting and then figuring out the scuppers. I would love for them to be angled down a little. However cutting them in after the bracket is mounted would be a pain. And I think I would rather not have to demount the bracket. I know my current water line, so maybe I should just put them where I think they should go after the sole is in.
Drain plug will be drilled oversize and filled then redrilled for the garboard drain.

Remove sole and assuming dry stringers laminate 1 1/2” of ply to the tops. Wrapping with 1708, csm down. And topping with one layer 1700.

Add cleats to perimeter of sides for outside sole to sit on.

Fit 1/2” Ply sole. Scarf joints or use butt blocks? Add backing for console and leaning post bolt down Laminate underside using 10oz cloth after saturating
Laminate top with 2 layers of 1700. running up sides 3, 6 inches.

For raising the console 2” I need to either build up a perimeter on the sole or build up the bottom of the console flange, not sure what will be best? If I build a base on the sole I could laminate ply to get the 2” and then fasten to that and not worry about backing blocks. My t-top attaches to the console.

I will build a transom unit that will include storage and a center live well. It will not come to the floor and will taper back at the bottom to allow for toe room. Live well will bump out a little in the center and be oval. I am figuring 30 gal or so. For this I plan on building it out of foam or 1/2” ply and laminating it with 2 layers 10oz. I am leaning toward front doors for access vs top hatches. I plan on keeping the rear of the bait well at least 5” off the transom to allow access for bracket bolts and rigging. I intend to rig thru the transom not the bracket unless there is a reason to do otherwise.

I plan on creating a storage compartment behind the leaning post with a drop in box that can be removed to access the connections at the rear of the main fuel tank, Then have another bilge access hatch behind that(close to the transom) to get to the bilge pumps, high water alarm and thru hull and pump for the bait tank.

So that's the easy part right, next comes the bracket build.
Plan on building a melamine form and laying up starting with 1708 csm out, followed by all 1700. So bracket guys, forgetting about dimensions in this discussion what should my layup schedule be? And what about coring. I figure the clamping board can use the same ply coring schedule as the transom, 2 x 3/4” +1/2” but how about coring all the other bucket surfaces. I think Strick/Bigshrimpin do not use coring other than the clamp board. Is that what I should do or should I add some 1/2” ply. I plan on 3 stringers and 2 pie plates. As to the platform, it will need to be notched around my trim tab acttuators and I am thinking no coring but some sort of half round fiberglass ribs. Either way I am thinking a 3” platform. So what would the layup be? Again thinking a melamine mold with 3” lip laided up with 1708, csm toward mold / followed by 1700. Keep in mind for this discussion I am, really trying to come up with a materials list more than anything.

I am thinking of starting with 30 gal of epoxy 3:1 from US composites,.
1 full roll of 50” 1700 cloth 45 degree biax 100 yards
1 full roll of 50” 10 oz cloth 125 yards
4 gallons of cabosil
4 quarts of fairing filler to mix with epoxy
15 yards of 50” 1708 45 degree
100 yards of 4” 8.7 oz cloth tape
100 yards of 8” 8.7 oz cloth tape



Anything that else that I should be thinking about while I am on my materials buying spree.

Any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Michael