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The things on the brackets are Flo Scan sending units. The brackets came with the kit. I got a good deal on a Flo Scan for twins on ebay. Rather than set it up for twin engines, I set it up for twin tanks. The gauge will read real time consumption from both sending units, but the totalizer can be switched between the two sending units. So instead of knowing how much fuel I've burned in each engine, I'll know how much fuel I've burned from each tank with the flip of a switch. The fuel filters need to be upstream of the sending units, so one for each tank. The sending units need to be at a low point in the fuel line so air bubbles don't get trapped and screw up the accuracy. That's why all the ups and downs in the fuel hoses. The two bilge pumps in the pics are the backups. The primary is a 800 gpm located in a sump under the back of the motor. The pump with the float switch mounted on the wood block will also have a high water alarm buzzer connected to it. I thought about just coating the tanks with coal tar epoxy, but I had laminating resin on hand. There are a few bubbles, but there's epoxy coating the tank even though the cloth bubbled. No worries with the bond. When I stripped one of the bubbles off, it took the zinc chromate with it. Quote:
Thanks for the kind words. The white hose is spa hose. It's used it for plumbing hot tubs, hence the name. It's poly vinyl chloride, so it glues up with standard PVC cement and fittings. It's flexibility is a big plus, but its cost not so much. In 3/4" diameter, it's about $3.50 a foot compared with $0.20 per foot for schedule 40 pipe. In 1.25" and 1.5", it's pushing 5 bucks a foot. That's why I only used it on the bends and not the straights. I haven't used corrugated bilge pump hose since a few years ago when I found myself 40 miles offshore with a busted bilge hose that just recirculated water in the bilge. I consider the spa hose money well spent. Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
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