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#25
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Thanks, The original inner skin looks like it only had one layer of a thicker woven roven with csm under that against the wood. It was barely an eighth inch thick if that thick, probably less. I was surprised just how thin it was for the large transoms is in theses 25's. The outer hull skin is a very thick 3/8" plus but that was the only thick part. The two wood layers were tacked together with nails every 6" or so with no glass between them at all. I will be going back a lot thicker. I know the outboard bracket will need more support than the outdrives did. I may build up about a 1/4" thick of glass on the inside once it is in place. I will start out with a layer of 1708 with 4" ears to lap onto the hull sides and bottom for tabbing. Then two layers of 1700 for thickness on just the core then a second 1708 with 6" ears for tabs then 2 more 1700 layers then a final 1708 with 8" ears for tabbing. That should give me the thickness I need and three over lapping tabs to the hull. I will also come back and add some additional tabbing strips around the edges for additional support. I will be pulling some nice flits in the corners as well to help the tabbing radius as it rolls off of the core. All said and done it will be a lot more than the thin original factory inside layer plus have the 1/8"- 3/16" of glass between the plys as well. I may be over doing it a bit but that is one large 7'x4' span of transom especially with the bracket and outboards hanging on it. I will also add some knees to the transom down to the inner stringers plus when I build the bracket I will try to align the stringers in it to match up with the ones in the hull to the knees so that it all supports off one another.
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Current SeaCraft projects: 68 27' SeaCraft Race boat 71 20' SeaCraft CC sf 73 23' SeaCraft CC sf 74 20' SeaCraft Sceptre 74 20' SeaCraft CC sf |
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