Head Gasket

[Roland Rodriguez]

Those dings are not good. Check the cylinder walls around the water jacket as they tend to corrode and you will have water intrusion (very typical). Take the heads to a machine shop and have them "shaved" basically grinded straight so they fit nice and tight on the block. New gasket and gasket material a must. I hope this helps but make sure the water has not eaten thru the cylinder sleeve and allowing water to enter.

[repirts]

Replaced head gasket and checked compression. It was good at 120lbs #1,3,5 and 125 2,4 ,6. Tried to start it and then the real trouble started. Hard starting and no idle AND infrequent but very noticable knocking noise as if there was metal hitting metal or something flying around in there I guess my season that never really started is over.

Right now I'm inclined to pull the power head, open it up and see what is going on. Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Roland Rodriguez]

relax partner.....we have been there and boy its frustrating. You have excellent compression which is very positive. Get your self a mechanics stethoscope from Discount Auto for 4 bucks. Isolate the noise,..where is it comming from. Here is the tip of the day...check the flywheel magnets...they go loose and make a heck of a grinding noise. If its comming from the base of the powerhead it may be the lower bearing (not good) but remain positive...have a soda and systematically determine where the noise is comming from. The hard starting could be a problem with the carburators, carb gaskets, or reed valves. But first thing first....dude bet ya its the magnets. Email me some good news.

[repirts]

Hi Roland,

If I could get it to idle long enough to listen I would try the stethoscope. It's not a grinding noise but a very definite knock, sort of "clack". When I pulled the head it was nicked. Could I have a broken piece of reed flying around in there accounting for the poor starting and ideling and noise?

I'm asssuming that because I have good compression I don't have a ring or cylinder wall problem. Am I correct?

Before pull the power head off I'll check the reeds.

Thanks.

[repirts]

Decided to pull the power head open it up and see what is going on. Started tonight by removing all the cables and hoses from the head. Took notes and digital pics so that I can get it back together. Hope to have the head in my basement within the next week. I'll keep you posted.

[repirts]

My son and I pulled the powerhead yesterday. What a job! There were ten studs with nuts holding the powerhead on. Nine let go pretty easily but the tenth was another story. We were using a boom truck to pick up the head. That one stud was stuck firmly enough to lift the boat off the trailer. Eventually, with enough pounding and prying we got it moving a little. All of a sudden it let go and there was enough tension and stretch in the line to catapult it about 12 feet into the air. Luckily the lift line held and it didn't hit anything or anyone. When it let go both my son, Christian, and I hit the dirt. I can't remember jumping that far or that fast in a long time. Found myself under another boat about 10 feet away.

Brouhjt it home. Damn it's heavy. Pulled the cylinder heads tonight. Some of the cylinders had dark wear lines. They were not deep enough to feel. One had a line that was just noticable when you ran your nail over it. Problem or not? Compression on all cylinders is good.

Thanks
Repirts (Steve)

[Roland Rodriguez]

Remember to have a torch nearby. heating the bolts will expand the aluminum and free them.
Start in sections. I dont think its in the cylinder/piston section as you have good compression. Take the carbs off as a whole unit so its not a mess latter. Take the intake off and inspect the reed valves. Last resort is spliting the engine and inspecting the crank and bearings both upper and lower. It's a relatively easy pump, driven by crankcase pressure. Email me directly at Rolrodjr@aol.com I've been there buddy....