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I just finished a similar project. I would definitely raise the transom to 25 inches. I’m currently using a Yamaha 130, and the boat moves along just fine and is great on the gas. You will need to go with hydraulic steering if you raise the transom. I cut out my liner about the same place you did. Remember that the original wood in the transom is 1 3/8 inches thick. If you go with 2 sheets of ¾ plywood, you may have difficulty fitting the liner back in place. Don’t try to lay the glass over the notch. Lay it up straight against the wood, then fill in the top with resin mixed with glass fibers. I used a router to trim the notch flat and square.
The bottom bolts for the motor may very well line up right were the splash well bottoms out back against the transom. Engine height will have to be looked at before drilling the bottom motor mount holes. I would use plywood for the transom. Everybody I talked to told me to use wood. Even my suppliers steered me away from composites. You’ll need to grind down that inside layer of glass that covered the transom, and cut the stringers back 4-6 inches to be able to glass up the new wood. Less chance for rot if the stringer is closed going back to the transom. I decided not to do anything about the drains, except to make a solid tube of glass instead of using thru hull fittings. I just don’t see how well the ball valves will work if the water line is already at the top of the drains (?). I will install clamshell vents to the bottom of the hull before next season to create a vacuum while underway. I’ve been using the boat now for about a month, and it’s been great. [img]images/icons/grin.gif[/img] Good luck with your project |
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