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#2
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Bigshrimpin
I’ll give it a stab….I’m thinking cost …. I would guess the aluminum goes together much much faster vs cure times, fabrication molds etc. What about weight ….I’m not sure about that ….how many layers do you need to make the tank safe ??? Then glassing in vents , fills, uptakes, fill gauge ….. Glassing in the baffle system ….. Good question about CG regs….they must have some sort of standard or hypothetical “lay up” schedule to attain the proper thickness. Of course corrosion isn’t a problem … The boats I used to “play” on had Fiberglass tanks …. They had some issues …but only because of age and the inability to remove them and clean them I think I'll stick with aluminum ... epoxy coated [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] |
#3
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My Big rig built in 1970 36c Hatteras Has fiberglass tanks and still does today.
My 2004 Sweet 16 Donzi has a 30 gallon plastic tank. We all know whats in a 1975 Seacraft.I know there is a guy on Ocean City maryland who builds fiberglass fuel tanks, I think the name of the company is BT'S Fiberglasss. JW |
#4
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I don't know why I didn't think of this until now, but I could use the old aluminum tank as a plug to make the mold for the new glass tank.
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#5
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Don't attempt ot build your own fiberglass tank unless you are very skilled at this work. The large manufacturers build their own ( Cabo, Viking ,Riviera ect) and have spent years perfecting their process. As far as cost is concerned they are very costly (all vinylester resin not the cheaper polyester). They pretty much last forever. I've watched them being built at Viking , Quite a process.
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Just wanted to share this information with everyone.
---------------------------------------------------------- Tim, The article seems to be aimed at a small boatyard, and not a do it yourself type person. Regarding the legality of it this link will reference you to the appropriate USCG web site. It basically says that a tank has to be tested at 3psi without leaking. A prototype has to be fire tested either in a fire chamber or a hull section using free burning heptane for 2 1/2 minutes. Also the tank has to be designed (not tested) to withstand a shock test of 25g's for 6 to 14 milliseconds if it is to be installed forward of the midpoint of the boat. Less if it is aft. The tank needs vents with flame arrestors etc.... Then it needs a label with the name of the manufacturer and that it meets these criteria. There are requirements for the label as well. Please read all the info at: http://www.uscgboating.org/regulatio.../183-510-a.htm I think that just buying a tank would be a much easier solution, unless you are going to make a number of them like in a production run. |
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