Loose center console

[SC204]

I have a 1986 center console with a T-top and noticed last time out the console moves in it's footprint on the floor and the fastening screws backed themselves out of the floor.Upon further investigation almost all the mounting holes in the deck have been egged out from the screws moving over time.I've got a few ideas on how to fix this but would like to hear some input to see if anyone has any creative fixes to this--thanks [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]

[FELLOW-SHIP]

Ha Bottomline
The center consol was screwed with sheet metal screws into the deck through little 3” x 3” plywood blocks approx ½ thick (lamination). Over time the wood rots and with the added pressure of the t-top swinging back and forth the rotted wood can no longer support the C.C. and the T-Top. My approach is always “When In Doubt Cut It Out”. I would remove the C.C. and T-Top then remove the top layer of glass replace the deck lamination (I would only use Plywood in that area) and then replace the top layer of deck glass.
FellowShip [img]/images/graemlins/frown.gif[/img]

[SC204]

Thanks for the input,unfortunately with the season so short here in Ma. I don't have the time to get into that right now-coupled with the fact I have a brand new outboard that needs some running.I came up with the idea of drilling out the old holes and refilling them and taking a piece of aluminum and using it as a backing plate under the floor on the corners.I have also been told to use 5200 adhesive to run a bead around the perimeter of the console?

[FlytheCoop]

Take t-top off for this season. Fix the console and add the t-top back this winter. A t-top coming loose could really cause some major bodily injury.

[gw204]

Before I had my T-Top installed, I remounted my console.

Prior to pulling it up I drilled out the mouting holes to accept. no. 12 stainless machine screws. The screws that came out were no. 10s and some of the holes were stripped. I pulled up the console and cleaned all of the old silicon sealer from the console base and deck. When I set the console back down, I bed it in a thick bead of 4200. I put a nice finishing washer on each new screw and sealed them with 2400 as well. Then I ran a bead of 4200 around the base and smoothed it out for a nice finished look. That thing ain't never movin'...unless I really, really, really want it to!!!! [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]

[Abe's Rocket]

5200 is a tremdous commitment, i would go with something a little less aggressive.

[elpez]

Had the same problem on my 20 cc, the console is very large for this boat, removed all the screws and sanded the bottom of the console to 2.5" above the deck, then built it up with layers of cloth amd matt fiberglass, taped the deck so as not to glass to the deck, sanded this a bit and installed a base of 1/4" starboard pplastic and a 1" lip at the base, re-drilled the screws in new positions with 5200 and its held great for over 9years, if you are ambitious, you can install an alum angle inside the console, similar to the newer seacrafts , this will give you a "new" area for the screws to grab on to. Good luck!!

[SC204]

Brian,what is the difference between 5200 and 4200 and how permenant is it?

[ScottM]

Brian,what is the difference between 5200 and 4200 and how permenant is it?

5200 is REALLY tough to remove once its set up. Both 4200 and 5200 can be used in similar applications, but in the case of your console where you may need to remove it in the future, 4200 is a better choice since it is "less permanent". For anything under water, I'd opt for 5200, but inside the boat, 4200 will suffice.

[SC204]

I would have drilled out the old holes but the screws I pulled out I believe are 1/4" Do they make stainless screws bigger than that? I guess I'll have to fill in the old holes.Any special way to do this?