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#1
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csick- I used the 8 gang blue seas and like it a lot. Im not sure about your location though- I would be afraid of hitting switches with my knees when running ???they are very easy to clean up that wiring. Maybe you will end up replacing the wires for everything you hook up and then end up rewiring the whole boat like I did [img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img]. Ive posted this pic (so dont bash me,lol) before but Ill post it again [img]/images/graemlins/grin.gif[/img]
wiring from the back side New rewiring job on the back of the console front look front side closer up wondering how good shes gonna look with my new leaning post!
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
#2
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Having built a custom console with limited space. I had to work hard to cram all the stuff in that area. Here's the pix's of the mockup.
http://www.classicmako.com/projects/xshark/bw24.htm |
#3
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Thanks for the pics guys.
Are those fuses or the reset breakers? Also, curious on what you guys have wired to the 8 switches. Still thinking, not sure what to do yet .... |
#4
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Where's that guy with the Grady....Gw20..something...[img]/images/graemlins/shocked.gif[/img] .He redid his panel from scratch.. Nick. .ask him...
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Don Battin Pipe Dreams Marine "Design her right, Build’er well Bend the throttles, And let’er eat…." Carl Moesly |
#5
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Nick,
Don is correct. I replaced one of those goofy simulated wood grain panels on my Grady with some black Rowmark engraving stock. The original toggle switches and separate indicator lights were replaced with illuminated rocker switches. All circuits are fused. My implementation was more involved as the panel also contained all of my gauges. I will try to post pics or a link to the project tonight for you. My ISP completely screwed my website and I haven't had the time to fix it yet. It's really not that difficult, just a bit time consuming. The wiring was tedious as each wire is custom sized and all connectors were crimped then sealed with heat shrink. There's only one thing I would do differently if I had to do it again. When I did the heat shrink over the female spade connectors, I did not place it over the entire connector, just over where the wire got crimped. It's not a big deal, but covering the whole thing would protect it a bit better. I thought about using a pre-made panel, but it just wasn't right for my application. I am extremely happy with the way it turned out and I've gotten many compliments. I finished my second panel a few months ago on my brother's 19 Grady and I should be doing a third this winter for a 29' Proline. I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. I'm not gonna take credit for the Rowmark engraving stock. I got that idea from that Mako guy. Ring-something.... [img]/images/graemlins/laugh.gif[/img]
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
#6
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In the not to distant future I will be starting my wiring. I've always enjoyed doing that part of the job and pride myself on doing clean installs. I think I'm going to add a new deal for me when doing the wiring.
You can get good quality clear heatshrink tubing from these folks. http://bestboatwire.com/ Use the computer and note pad to make labels for the wiring. This will add more time to the job, but there is a hell'va lot of wire going in this boat. |
#7
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Here you go Nick.... [img]/images/graemlins/smile.gif[/img]
http://cablespeed.com/~briandm/projects/project4.htm
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Brian 1981 Mako 17 |
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