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Old 09-08-2004, 03:39 PM
warthog5 warthog5 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Pensacola,Fl.
Posts: 789
Default Re: fiberglass layup schedule

Will There is a lot of good imfo here. As said always do a dry fit to check everything first. To add to what Ed said about the fillets. I couldn't agree more. I added fillets before the core went in. The inside corners of my boat were exact 90 deg angles and I didn't like that.In both pix's below you will see I added fillets and 1808 45/45 over them.
I then rounded the Kledgecell core to fit.
Now I didn't follow the instructions from above. You have to remember that ALL my work is done with FGCI's 2 to1 epoxy and epoxy is a very good glue, compaired to polyester resign.
The inside of my transom was very flat. I made sure of that.
I coated the inside with epoxy [very heavy] I then coated the core with epoxy [very heavy] Then I mixed more epoxy and added Cabisol to it and used a notched trowl to apply it all over the transom core on it's backside. Extra epoxy/cabisol was laid in the corners. Then everything was bolted together.
There is 3 layers on the foward part of the transom core.
1808 45/45, 2415 0/90, 1808 45/45. On the outside of the transom I ground all the gellcoat off and added 2 layers of 1808 45/45. I don't like using mat with epoxy. I think it's a waste of good epoxy. With that said the 1808 has 3/4oz mat stiched to it and helps as a bedding. Bedding is what mat is really for. To take up any voids or iregularities [sp?] this is real important with polyester and the use of roven wovens.
I don't use a lot of roven woven. The biaxles are a much better product and it cost's about $1.00 to $1.50 more a yard. Money well spent if you ask me.



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