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#1
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Best regards, Roger http://members.cox.net/rhstg44/Misc/...go%20small.jpg 1979, 20' Master Angler |
#2
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hehehe ...I remember doing that !!
from this .... ![]() To this .... ![]() |
#3
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Hey Scott, remember the land speed record for hatch recoring? Hah! Hold on let me go find a pic.........OK got it!
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__________________
http://lecharters.com '76 23 SC CC I/O '86 20 Aquasport 200 '98 15 Boaton Whaler Dauntless There's more but w/e |
#4
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Thanks for all of the responses and information. I'm going to stay with ply for the core (same thickness as the original) and use epoxy to keep the smell down. I'll let you know how it turns out.
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#5
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But that picture is AFTER the fact ... As I recall the grinding and glass work was done in the cover of darkness !!! [img]/images/graemlins/smirk.gif[/img] |
#6
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I have re-cored panels using plywood , Nida-Core, and most recently used ATC brand Corecell. Corecell was by far the easiest to work with you can cut it with a utility knife much like dry-wall.
Here is a link to my repair with Corecell Fuel deck hatch |
#7
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are those pic's from Thunder Pig??!!
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#8
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#9
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![]() I would say 40% of the hatches I did were done with marine ply where weight was not an issue and/or cost was a factor. Rich hit the nail on the head for installation technique The remaining 60% were done with Divinycell on some very large hatches. Same basic process, except that after I laid down a new layer of glass (and before I installed the Divinycell core) I troweled out some Divilette onto the fresh glass. The Divilette is a pink liquidy-putty that acts as bonding adhesive (same sort of idea when you lay tile down on a bathroom floor) After that two layers of biaxial were laid down and then I trimmed around the edges when the glass was still green so I did not have to do any grinding afterwards. |
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