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#1
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Rich
If you cannot make a lip or add a strip as Hermco has suggested, as another alternative you could try this stuff. I have used it to fill in the gaps. It is waterproof and flexs with the deck. You can get it at Home depot in 20' lengths for under $4. Just stuff it in the gap after screwing the hatch down and then caulk over. I think Tom's idea of waxing first makes sense ![]() ![]()
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#2
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I don't know Capt. Chuck, that looks like a "stop gap" measure to me but it definately makes it a one beer job!
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#3
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Your right Don, it's just a filler.
On the original deck hatch with the pry out hatches that housed the batteries underneath became a pain in the arse to remove and then reseal everytime to service the batteries. I then made a new hatch with a gutter which worked until the transom redo... Here's a prior picture of the deck hatch with the gutters before the splash well removal. I used to screw around with that darn thing all the time when it was in it's original config.. ![]() ![]()
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![]() ![]() 1978 23' Superfish/Potter Bracket 250HP -------- as "Americans" you have the right to ...... "LIFE, LIBERTY and the PURSUIT of a Classic SeaCraft" -capt_chuck |
#4
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Whats up? I don't see any beer bottles in that bilge!
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#5
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Don / Other Tom
The wax idea does make sense as I have already taken this hatch out 3 times over the last 2 years and it is a PITA with such a large gap, to remove all the caulk. Thanks Rich |
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