Bennett Trim Tab - Plate replacement Question

[peterb]

All,

I am replacing one of my Bennett trim tab plates. I just took the old setup off (including the old screws [which I got got out in broken pieces).

I read an old post which suggested that I drill a larger hole in the same spot and then plug it with a G-10 shaped rod.

What do people think of this idea? If so, how deep should i go and what glue should I use (5200?)?

I would greatly appreciate whatever advice you can throw my way.

Thanks,

PeterB (aka Armani)

[warthog5]

I give up. What's a G-10 shaped rod?

[peterb]

Here is the old post that I was referring to and here is a link to a 10-G website
web page

The best way is to overdrill, but put in a G-10 insert instead of a dowel. You can then tap into the G-10 and it will never be a problem and you do not need to glass over it on the outside.
We buy g10 at McMaster Carr, but a quick web search turned this up G-10 supply

You can get the stuff in sheets, rods, whatever, and it is very tough, holds a thread, and is easy to work with. Great material for quick fabrication. I also use this for engine mounting holes-overdrill and then put in a g10 tube and you end up with a compression tube that will not allow the transom to be compressed by some mechaninc with a big wrench. Just leave it a c.h. long after you glue it in.

I would worry about putting wood dowels in-how is that any different than the plywood you already have?

--------------------
Peter Alarie
"that won't take too long, will it?"
www.guckinc.com
peter@guckinc.com

Post Extras:

[peterb]

Here is a good response that i got from one of our members

Hi Peter,
1/2" diameter rod or tube is a good general size for these inserts. Rods are solid, tubes have a hole down the center of some smaller size, like a straw. We use both, but rods are perhaps more versatile if you are only going to buy one type. Glue them in with West epoxy, thickened with silica (406) so there are no gaps on the edges. If you do it right, the fitting should cover the holes and G-10 so you do not have to worry about covering them with anything. The epoxy is a fine water barrier. For this instance, 1.5" depth will be fine.

FYI, I do not use 5200 for anything, I hate the stuff. If I need that kind of strength, I use epoxy. For just sealing holes, use a 3M 101, Sikaflex, or some less severe sealant.

Peter
----- Original Message ----- From: "Peter Boyle" <peter_boyle@hotmail.com>
To: <peter@guckinc.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 05, 2006 6:39 PM
Subject: RE: SeaCraft Question


Peter,

Thank you very much for the timely response. Much appreciated.

Quick info. i have a couple of quick followup questions.

1. For the rod to you mean .5 inches in diameter?
2. What's the diference between a rod and a tube?
3. How deep should I go (1.5 inches or so)?
4. To glue it in should I use the west system 105 & 205 expoy or good old 5200?
5. Should I cover the exterior side (where the screws do in) with anything, like gelcoat or filler?

Thanks again,

Peter



From: "Peter Alarie" <peter@guckinc.com>
Reply-To: <peter@guckinc.com>
To: "'Peter B'" <PETER_BOYLE@HOTMAIL.COM>
Subject: RE: SeaCraft Question
Date: Sun, 5 Mar 2006 10:33:30 -0500
MIME-Version: 1.0
Received: from dukecmmtar01.coxmail.com ([68.99.120.48]) by bay0-mc8-f16.bay0.hotmail.com with Microsoft SMTPSVC(6.0.3790.211); Sun, 5 Mar 2006 07:33:26 -0800
Received: from Guck ([68.99.153.229]) by dukecmmtar01.coxmail.com (InterMail vM.6.01.05.02 201-2131-123-102-20050715) with ESMTP id <20060305153324.ZKZE7208.dukecmmtar01.coxmail.c om@Guck> for <PETER_BOYLE@HOTMAIL.COM>; Sun, 5 Mar 2006 10:33:24 -0500
X-Message-Info: JGTYoYF78jEHjJx36Oi8+Z3TmmkSEdPtfpLB7P/ybN8=
Organization: Guck, Inc.
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.6626
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180
Return-Path: peter@guckinc.com
X-OriginalArrivalTime: 05 Mar 2006 15:33:26.0413 (UTC) FILETIME=[255BEBD0:01C6406A]

Hey Peter,

Great looking boat-I hope to get into a 23 soon!



G-10 is a great material that we use for all sorts of things. If the area
around the old holes is damaged or soft, just overdrill it to the rod size
and glue in a section of the G-10. For this application, I would get a ½"
rod with some smaller size clearance hole (that you will later drill out
when you tap or self tap in the new screw) and glue it in with thickened
epoxy. Ideally you would drill through the transom core to the inner
laminate and stop there, but it is no big deal if you drill through, just
make sure the edge of the g-10 is sealed up well when you glue it in (no
gaps for water). If the holes are really f'ed up, just use solid rod
instead of tube, that way the alignment is not critical at the glue in stage
(you are not aligning an existing hole in the g-10).



I also used this method for my motor mount holes, as the g-10 acts as a
compression tube and prevents cracking the laminate. For that application,
you drill through and leave the rod/tube a tiny long so that it takes the
compression load of the fitting.



Give a call if this in not clear and good luck!

Peter



Peter Alarie

Guck, Inc.

275 Franklin St.

Bristol, RI 02809

401 254 5090 voice

www.guckinc.com

Championship Winning Boatwork!

[alarie]

G-10 or Garolite is an amazing material for boatbuilding or custom fabrication. You can get it in sheets from 1/32" to 2" thick, solid rods, or tubes (hollow rods). It is basically an epoxy/glass material that is tough and easy to work with due to the extensive shapes you can buy it in.

Make sure if you are gluing G-10 that you sand it up real well, as it has a very smooth, almost glass like surface when you buy it.

Here is a better link for a supplier:
McMaster Carr; G-10 supplier and search for "G-10".

McMaster Carr sells all sorts of stuff, but I mostly buy G-10, plastic sheets or rods, teflon, delrin, wierd SS fastners, titanium, aluminum; all of which you can get in relativly small quantities. Get their catalog if you are so inclined-you will be amazed at what is in there! How about left hand thread, metric hex cap bolts in either SS, zinc plated steel, or titanium!

Peter

[peterb]

Well, I took Peter A's advice (thanks Peter) and bought the 10-G sticks. I drilled out the necessary holes yesterday in my transom and epoxied those suckers in. Since it is raining today I will have to wait until next weekend to complete the job.

As a FYI, I had to buy 8 feet of the G-10 rods, while I only needed about a foot.

This stuff is expensive but unbelivably strong and easy to work with. It cost me 11 dollars per foot, and I will be happy to sell anyone at the same cost.

Just let me know.

[oldfielder]

I'll take two feet of it if you have it.
Doug
Actually, I'm thinking now that the larger 1 inch tubes might be the perfect thing to replace those deck drains on my 23 that I've been putting off for a while.

[peterb]

Doug,

Sorry I forgot to mention that i only have .5 diameter.

If you want some fine, if not, that's fine too.

So how are you liking the Montauk special?

[RS]

I'll take 2 feet of it. PM the details of your payment preference. Thank you.

[oldfielder]

Yeah-I knew that's what you had,and come to think about it, for my application I'm going to try to get the .25.
The other comment about the tubes was because I saw that they sell 1 inch tubes on the website and I need to fixup those scuppers-I just pulled the old rotten tubes out.
Thanks for the offer.
I'll be enjoying the boat in such a difft. light come April-I can't stop starting projects! But she sure is pretty.