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#1
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Rookie question, but why use so many terminal posts and bus bars? Is it to save wire? They seem like open accidents and trouble spots just waiting to happen, plus they have to add to maintenance.
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#2
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I'm sure your referring to the one in the back. It is coated with fluid film to protect it. That is the connection point for all the pump's and float switch's.
Ok, now think about this. Most boat's have the wiring all crimped and sealed for these and that's fine untill you have a problem and need to do some testing. Then you take a test light and stab the insulation to test for power. You have just screwed up the watertite integrity of the wiring. ![]() So enter the terminal board into the system. Now I can prop the terminal's for power. I can also do a quicker componet swap too. Here's the drawing. ![]() |
#3
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Here's the Power Pac.
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#4
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Nice , Clean setup Ya have. Afraid My 20' would.nt float with all the GiZmo's! ![]() Sure like My Compass! Scream'n reals' Tug
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http://www.frenzie.com/frenzielogoline.GIF www.frenzie.com http://www.frenzie.com/custom.htm "Classic SeaCraft" Lures 1983_seacraft_master_angler.]htm My wife and I had words, But I didn't get to use mine."?" |
#5
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Dang! I had a whole thing typed out and the forum timed out on me.
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#6
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Warthog
In the NEMA box, Are you going to crimp pins on the wires for the block or just the bare wire end??? I'm duplicating your set-up. Thanks for the idea!!! |
#7
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The design of that block and the way it fastens you can't solder end's to the wires. I just stripped double the length I needed and folded that area in half and twisted it to form a larger gauge wire.
On the madian voyage I had lost imfo to the VHF. I knew right where to look and found a ground wire wasn't tightened enough and came loose. [my falt, they are tiny screw's] A 5min fix on the water. |
#8
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Would you post a pic of the finished wiring??
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#9
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Here's a few more pix's I took this morning. I had a PM askind some specific question's.
You need to understand that this boat has a LOT more system's than your average boat of it's size and what I have posted so far is just a piece of the overall wiring. In the main console, I haven't posted any pix's of it. It's not as neat looking as what you have seen so far. This is because I don't want to cut any factory harness's and you have to do something with the excess. It's very crowded in the STB console. The question was asked about protecting the main feed to the fuse panel that I posted. There is a Blue Sea's surface mount circuit breaker [CB] and a Blue Sea's mini ON/OFF switch to kill power to that panel. ![]() This is a volt meter that you can check each battery to see where it stand's on charge state. Beat's the heck out of going and getting the VOM and check each battery. ![]() |
#10
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Picked up a dpdt switch for my nav/anchor lights today and cant figure out how to wire the damn thing now. on-off-on
i need it to light both forward and aft masthead light in one(anchor) position i need only the forward masthead, and side lights and a transom (white)to light in the running position. I have rear stern light so i dont want that aft masthead to light when in the nav light position- (otherwise i am showing 2 whites from astern, and im not towing,lol) this dpdt switch has 7 spades on the rear, - anyone tell me how to wire it to make it work properly? still want to keep the instrument lights on a seperate switch so i can leave them off when running in the dark on those dark moonless nights. dont mean to highjack the thread- thanx- craig ![]()
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"Lifes too short to own an ugly boat" |
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