Bunk or roller trailer

[abl1111]

Here are a few pix of my trailer and the bow scratches









Any advice ?

Thx

[Old'sCool]

There is a white pvc covered aluminum pipe "V" shape that would force the boat onto the keel roller. I think you need two, one at the rear most roller and one midship.

[Blue197320]

speaking of trailers id like to know where i can get the brackets to put the keel bunks on my trailer. also does anyone know offhand the deadrise in the second step of the 20 hull? ive got to replace my bunks but i can get a good measurement off the boat. thanks!!!

[Bushwacker]

ab111 - you have the same center roller that I have, but I've never had a problem with boat jumping off that roller, probably because it only goes a couple of feet before the rear gangs of rollers that hang out behind the trailer start making contact. The marks on your hull indicate it's jumping off the roller after the first couple of feet. Don't think my vertical side rollers would help, as they don't make contact till boat is about halfway on trailer. On my previous boat/trailer, I had a couple of large rollers right next to center roller that were free to tilt toward the center and did a good job of centering hull as it came up on the trailer.

I suspect boat is jumping off the roller because there isn't much vertical load on it at that point. Are you backing the trailer in too far? Is the ramp so steep that the winch cable is actually lifting the boat up off the roller while ost of the hull is still in water? Or maybe a combination of these two factors? I back mine in just far enough that the towing eye, which is about 8-10" above waterline, is just above the top of the roller; roller and all but about 1/2" of cross member are OUT of the water. This puts enough load on that roller that tongue of trailer tries to lift bumper of truck when boat is about half way on trailer.

Hope this helps, Denny

[abl1111]

It sounds like we're talking about two different trailer designs and therefore two different ways to load and unload. I've owned roller trailers in the past ( not float on/bunks like I have now ) and have never had a problem like this.

I could definitely be loading it wrong; maybe the trailer is too far in ( I put the trailer in till the truck's rear wheels are inches from the edge of the water ). This allows me to hand pull the boat up 1/3 of the way, then bouyancy helps me winch her home.

I feel like I need some sort of "V" roller at the first roller point - this will allow me to keep her in line.

It is such a b*tch trying to keep the boat floating - centered over that aft roller - then run up to the winch, start cranking only to have it fall of center and I have to start over again. Even w/ help, it's a hassle. The scratches are from the boat's "V" not being on the roller at all. I then start to winch and the hull gets scratched going up along that aft roller's shaft "nut".

Gotta be a better way -

Reelescape - got a picture ?

[Capt Chuck]

I feel like I need some sort of "V" roller at the first roller point - this will allow me to keep her in line.

It is such a b*tch trying to keep the boat floating - centered over that aft roller - then run up to the winch, start cranking only to have it fall of center and I have to start over again. Even w/ help, it's a hassle.

Gotta be a better way -

Alan

Here is a couple of ideas I think will solve your centering problem:

First you need the forward center bunks. These will keep your bow in-line with the center Rollers/Pads. I paid approx $85 shipped with S/S hardware.



Second: "Get rid of the rear roller". Make a templete of your stern's deadrise with cardboard. Then construct a stern keel guide out of 2"x12" PT lumber, carpet, monel staples and then bolted to the frame. This will keep the back of the boat centered on the rear axle and between the bunks. The boats weight will be on the main bunks. The forward bunks and the keel guide will keep it aligned.

Your SeaCraft will load perfectly every time. No More Hassel, No More Scratches

[Ed]

ABL111-

Have you tried moving your bunks in a bit? It looks like they are very far out and as a result, the hull is bottoming out on the keel rollers before it makes contact with the bunks which should center the boat. As it is setup now, teh weight is on the keel rollers...and when the hull rolls off them during unloading and loading you get the gouges.


I would try moving the main bunks in first. Then once they are in position, you adjust the existing rollers to take a little bit of weight (bunks should carry the vast majority of the weight) or you can ditch the rollers and just swap in Captain Chucks v-blocks and front bunks.

[abl1111]

Thx for all the input and help. I think that the best solution would be to have (2) angled rollers along side the aft roller to keep the boat centered. All else works well once she is centered. The "V" is pretty constant through-out the hull.

Capt Chuck: Those front beds seem great, but my problem would happen before I even hit that point - the boat would fall off the roller. However, the 12x2 "V" idea seems like a good one, but I'd be concerned that there is a lot of friction on that once the boat was being pulled home ? What's your opinion ? I think once I get the loading problem figured out, then those front bunks would help reduce load on front keel rollers a lot...

Bushwacker: cool design roller by Stoltz - might work ?!

Trident: I think the bunks are where they should be - I did a lot of research i.e. looked at a lot of trailered SC pix on this site and asked a lot of measurement specs before I set them there. Also, the rollers were re-adjusted the first time I set it all up to have the rollers just touch the keel - 90% or more of the aft weight is on the bunks.

The other thing to think of is that the cross members of this trailer are not symetrical box-tube (square), but more like a "C" shape with 90 degree angles. It's tough to mount things to it and maintain structural integrity.

Also, it is a trailer I use 2-4x a year. If I needed it more, I'd get a new one...

[NoBones]

Ok, now that everyone else has given there take on trailers,
I will give you mine.
My 20SF sits on a tandem axle galvanized Continental.
On the set up there are 7 12in Stoltz rollers and
8 4in donut rollers. I used 14in galvanized 5/8 bolts on the 12in rollers and 4in 5/8 bolts on the 4in donuts.
Every shaft was drilled in the center of the bolt head approx. 5 inches on the 12's and 2 inches on the 4's
with an 1/8 inch dill bit, with an outlet hole and the end of the drilling. Then tapped for a zirc fitting that
enables you to be able to pump grease into the roller shaft.
I set up double 12 inch on the first cross member and the second. There is a 12 inch wide piece of rough sawn Cedar
as a walk board the length of the trailer. Also a 912 Power Winch with a stainless cable that runs the length of the walk board. What this allows me to do is launch and load the boat by myself. It is truly a one man operation.
I shot these pics in the barn just now...












Also the shafts (bolts) are tack welded on the heads to the frame.
The biggest failure is when a roller seizes on the shaft and wears out the bracket. These rollers have not been touched in over 10 years. Just take grease gun to the ramp twice a year and juice em' up.


I know the pics are over kill, but a picture to me is worth a
thousand words..
You be the judge. Decide how you want to be able to come and go as you please.

See ya, Ken

[Capt Chuck]

Capt Chuck: Those front beds seem great, but my problem would happen before I even hit that point - the boat would fall off the roller. However, the 12x2 "V" idea seems like a good one, but I'd be concerned that there is a lot of friction on that once the boat was being pulled home ? What's your opinion ? I think once I get the loading problem figured out, then those front bunks would help reduce load on front keel rollers a lot...

Based on what you are describing,I figure two things here Alan. Like Ed said if you move the bunks inside a couple of inches, less pressure on the keel. All your weight should be on the bunks. Also, I think your not sinking your trailer in the water far enough and your dragging your boat up. You need to drive your boat on. Sometimes, depending on how steep the ramp is, I just can float the boat in position.
No friction on the Keel Guide or the forward bunks because, As your boat loads they doesn't touch the hull until it's just about in position to haul out.

The keel guide and the front bunks should NOT take any load of the boat! Both are put in position snug up to the hull while your boat is centered on the trailer in your yard. You need to get the load off the center rollers period. A "Float-On" type trailer is not a "Roller" trailer. Your trying to combine the two