Looking to Buy

[Bigshrimpin]

Man do I despise boat brokers . . . There was no 225 in 1988. That's a 1980 or 1981 motor non-oiler merc. Get the serial number on the midsection. It begins with a 6. There is also a stamp with the manufacture date of the starter. If the starter is original . . . it'll tell you what year it was built.

If you want some negotiating power then inspect the wiring from the trigger and stator, harness, Trim and Tilt Lines (are probably shot . . . $150 each to replace) . . . that motor has an external trim and tilt pump (make sure it works). Coils if they haven't been replace are probably cracked . . . look at them carefully.

Absolutely do a compression test . . . around 125psi is normal for tat motor. Chrome bore mercs cannot be honed or bored oversized.

That's a 25" motor on the boat . . . don't think any 1973 hulls had a 25" transom . . . so look at that too. The plate was probably used to raise the transom 5" . . . Tell him you want to sink a drill bit into the transom . . . right around the rinky dink swim platform (gauranteed rot around that spot). Teak rails might leak too . . . so you want a sea trial with the bilge totally dry.

That boat is not going to move anytime soon, so keep a cool head.

If you want to mess with the boat broker . . . ask him to show you the oil injection and to find the spark advance modules . . . above the carbs. Ask him why the wires are rotten or why they are missing. I can go on and on . . . if you can give me a bunch of digital pics of the motor. I'm just picking out a few weak spots. That motor is tough as nails . . . sadly it's not worth much. $800 - $1000 is prime condition (needs nothing). One good thing about that motor is Wh-20 carbs . . . they are worth $200. wh-15's are not as good.

also check gear oil . . . for water or milky color.