Boat support stands / trailer transfer

[Islandtrader]

Very nice presentation. It really puts all factors into perspective.

Makes me think that my 2000# rated chain might of been a tad light.

[abl1111]

Thank you for that explanation - done very well.

Now the $1,000,000 question - what can I safely use as a beam, assuming I mount a "V" notched for the "V" of the hull, made out of a 4x4 ( to help w/ stability ) - to lift the front of my boat for this trailer swap ?

I was hoping to use cinder blocks for side support ( they hold houses up ), I think (2) high would do it ( so - (4) for each side of the bow for a total of (8) needed ) Then use (2) bottle jacks, to lift the beam and the boat ...

What should this beam be made of ?

Lastly, does anyone know, maybe from setting up a trailer what the bow weight is of a 23' Tsunami, Sceptre ? ( No 20' need answer... )

Thanks all.

[76Red18]

Trey is right about the blocks being weaker when placed on their flat face. Block are non-structural, they don't hold houses up; its the reinforced concrete that gets poured in the "cells" of the block combined with a perimeter concrete beam that makes the "structure". 2 block side by side with the cells vertical with the next coarse or layer turned 90* to the previous coarse is the best way to stack them. Placed on a flat, level, well compacted surface,preferably concrete, this method of stacking would be ok up to about 4'. Fr. Franks 2 x 6's would be the way to go. You could even use 4 2 x 8's for the safty factor. As far as my credentials go, I'm the one that has to build the "over engineered" structures that architects and engineers like Trey dream up. I know ya gotta to do it that way because of the c. y . a. factor.

[Fr. Frank]

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use concrete blocks stacked on their faces, or flat surfaces. They' break more often than not.

To support my transom, I stack 8"x16" 16lb blocks three high on each side, stacked horizontally, with flat sides perpendicular to the ground.
I place them under the corners of the transom, with w/ an 18' long section of 2"x10" on top, and a 16" long 4"x4" on top of that, placed at the outer chine, so that 2" to 3" inches extends beyond the rear of the transom, and 1/2" extends beyond the hard-chine along the length.
This allows me to tilt the motor all the way down without hitting the ground.

I NEVER crawl or work under a boat I have not tried to push off the blocks by hand. No Kidding!! I will put both hands against a hull and push and pull violently to make sure it is stable and secure, and even then I am reluctant.

After blocking a boat off of a trailer, I push hull supports in from the sides that look like this: They're made out of 2"x8" boards. This prevents the boat from rocking, and makes it safe to climb aboard and work.

[Trey1096]

When I take my boat off of the trailer, I lower the tongue and make a center rear support with (3) 12” blocks plus a 16” long 2x10 block on top as a bearing surface and a similar support at each corner. I then jack up the tongue until the rear starts to rise off the bunks. Then I do the “set/lift/move trailer/lower/move jack..” until the trailer can move all of the way out. It usually takes three times to get the trailer completely out.

When I’m done, there is a centerline support about 1’ forward of the transom, a centerline support about 3’ aft of the point where the keel starts to curve upward, and a support on each side just forward of where the scuppers exit. I’ll then wedge a 2x8 between the ground and the hull on each side around mid-ship.

It’s high enough to let the engines all of the way down. Like Fr. Frank, I’ll shake the boat pretty hard to make sure it isn’t going anywhere. Even then, I try to limit my time under the boat and I walk gingerly when I’m in it.

I’ve thought about getting some sort of frame, like Stick got from Harbor Freight, so I could just lift the bow and roll the trailer out in a single move.

Abl, do you have guideposts on the rear of the trailer that would have to pass under the hoist beam? It sounds like you’re trying to push the bow up from below, rather than pulling it up from above, right?

Trey

[abl1111]

No guide posts - I will be making a "V" shaped center bunk, but that's another story/topic.

I don't want to lift the bow from the top, I want to lift from the bottom. I'm trying to avoid the multiple jack/block thing.

I appreciate everyones help. I'm still looking for a definitive answer to how I want to lift the boat. If the ' cross beam, (2) bottle jacks idea ' is not safe to lift the bow, that's OK.

I own boat stands so the beam idea is just to get the bow up, trailer out - then the boat stands would be put in place.

[resiw33]

Here is the answer. I searched for a while tring to figure out a good way. Its not cheap but it works great and well worth it. I bought it with a couple buddy's. I used it on my 26' center console and now use it on my 23' spectre inboard. I dont work for them or sell them just own one.
www.portableboatlift.com

[NoBones]

Bought one of these from Harbor Freight for under $600
while on sale..
Strick also has one. Had to redrill the I beam
(8 half inch holes) to make over 8 ft wide to clear
trailer fenders.. Works great !!


See ya, Ken

[abl1111]

Both of those ideas look great. But, I don't have the room for something like that.

I'm looking for a DIY, home-made thing that will be safe and can be set-up and broken down with ease.

Would you think a 10' 6x6 or 8x8 would do it, w/ bottle jacks mounted on top of cinder blocks ?

Or, should I blow off this idea ?