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#11
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Got back to work over the past few weekends, still waiting for some warmer weather to get more fiberglass work going
Dilligaf - Yes, the epoxy/cabosil was used as an adhesive. ![]() ![]() Mixed up a thick cabosil/epoxy paste and troweled it onto the 1708, made a bed of the paste for coosa transom to set into, them clamped everything together with 2 x 4's ![]() As per some previous discussions, it was not fun removing the carriage bolts, till I got out my new favorite tool, the hand sledge! ![]() ![]() ![]() I put the transom cap mold on just to get a feel for how the transom will look ![]() laid up two layers of 1708, 6 inch 1708 tape along the edges and woven roven on the inside. I could use some thoughts regarding if this will be strong enough to support a full bracket with a 425# motor? should I grind it up a bit and add more layers? |
#12
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Everything is looking good. your work is clean and neat which helps out alot when laminating. What I would do is round those corners out for strength. what I mean is mixed up some chopped mat cabosil and epoxy fill the corner, basically making 2 45 degree angles maybe an 1 1/2" between the the angle,then while it is still wet, lay a peice of mat and and then a layer of 1708 over a the mat.This will bond it all together. Now this is just me and I like over doing stuff. It will take you maybe a half hour to do now while everything is open which is much easier then if you have a problem later. keep it up and the pictures coming, It is what keep people interested in the project.
__________________
36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
#13
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BTK, Thanks for the info, I'll try that tomorrow. Should I extend the first layer of mat 3 or 4 inches further out than the 1708? I followed your excellent post of your restoration and am stealing several of your ideas, for instance, the before and after pics below of sodablasting the hull. I used Tony from Ocean State Sodablast of Bristol, RI, quality work, fair price.
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#14
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you soda blast the whole hull or just where the bottom paint was?
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#15
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Tony only soda blasted the bottom paint and the good news was no gel coat blisters were found.
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#16
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Strike that last "forward looking" statement. Upon further review it appears the hull below the waterline has a bunch of blisters. When I cracked a couple open it seems to be just an air pocket with no osmosis type liquid inside. So I guess I get the dremel out and open these up, then quik fair and sand it out before several coats of barrier paint.
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#17
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I would make the mat about an inch wider all the way around becuase it does stretch. I was always told to put a layer of mat down before a stichmat or 1708. I will tell you what soda blasting the bottom of a boat is the best money ever spent, I will never sand a bottom again after I got the bottom of my boat soda blasted. Keep up the good work.
__________________
36' Yellowfin 1972 20' seacraft 140 suzuki http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18607 |
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