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#1
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Gil-
I got fed up too and I am still fed up especially after receiving ticket for improper/unsafe equipment..just not my year so far!!!! I remember float on trailers used to have removable lights that would fit on top of the guide posts..including license plate bracket....Do what Father Frank says..replace all......everything. I plan on doing this soon as well...when time and money permits!!!! I would go with LED (fully waterproof)..or if you felt more safer mount to guide posts if you have them....but not necessary -Fred
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"...Southern by the grace of God" |
#2
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A couple options - they do have lights with bungee wraps for the rear cleats - I never had lights for years because I could never keep them running either. The last 2 trailers had guide bars - since then I have had very little problems with my lights - they never get wet sitting up there. I just don't think anything can be sunk in saltwater and survive long JMHO
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Any way you measure it - dumbass is expensive |
#3
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Hey guys,
Thanks for the feedback. I hear you on the solid connections and sealing the $#!+ out of everything, but water is a wily adversary and always wins over time. I already pulled everything. I had already bought a new submersible light kit (submersible just means your can put it underwater - sure as heck doesn't mean it will survive very long)... "Waterproof" is the better route but too late - already bought the "submersible" kind. Now I'm thinking removable mounted bar rather than a permanent mount. I know you FL guys get the double whammy due to daily rains and humidity along with dipping the trailer so I thought maybe someone had resorted to a removable trailer light bar. Unless I hear any real negatives I'll dream up a design and get crackin'.
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there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
#4
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Pipe-Lights! They have LED available also.
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#5
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i use 16/3 wire or extension cord for my lights. that way you have a good ground all the way up to the tongue where it stays dry also. get some liquid electrical tape and put that on the butt connectors then take adhesive lined heat shrink and put that over the 16/3 and the light wires and you should be good to go.
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#6
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what i did is went to my local u- haul and bought the magnetic lights that have the entire rigging that is removable when i get to the water.... good strong magnets that hold firmly to trailer and i use one set for all of my trailers... in my opinion its the best thing ive ever done as my trailer goes...
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http://i729.photobucket.com/albums/w...ictures007.jpg I DONT KNOW, BUT I'LL GIV'ER HELL TRYIN!!! |
#7
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I've been using extension cords for the last three or four trailers I've had, using 5200 on the bare splices then heat shrink taking extra time and care. Works great with the leads, especially the ground a "home run" from the truck to the lights. Never an issue. However the magnet idea has merit except on my aluminum trailers. Metal and saltwater = bad!
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#8
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Thanks again for the feedback guys. Reel escape mentioned pipe lights and I had been thinking PVC tubing for a light bar. Here's where I headed, hope its legal:
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there's no such thing as normal anymore... |
#9
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Agreed! They work great. ![]()
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FishinDaze |
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