Another trailer problem.boat won't load right.

[strick]

Denny is right you need those rollers on the outer panel. Here is a pic of my old 23 sitting on it's roller trailer. It never gave me any problems loading.



I would also put another set of rollers up toward the bow. Side guide poles are also a big help. Your trailer does look a little on the small side however It should be ok for the short distances you tow. Personally I prefer bunk trailers.

strick

[stumpie2]

yeah, mine are also in the outer most and the inner most panels. the rollers on the outer most panel are postioned about 2-3 inches from the step/strake to kind of trap the boat while it is in the ramp "semi-floating" and keep the boat centered

[joema]

I had many problems with rollers falling off ect. got pissed bought 4 long 2 b8 pressure treated screwed 2 each side used rooler brackets to attach it lowered hight to launch best thing i ever did 100 bucks

[bigeasy1]

Denny,I think you're right about the spacing,I can easily move the whole arm and roller assemblies,out to get on the outer step,and am planning on doing that next.
However,it looks like the individual square arms,(the ones that slide past each other,in or out) that the rollers are attached too,are not long enough,to spread apart much further.
I'm wondering,if I can only slide the whole assembly out to the outside ,how far away from the keel i can go,and still give enough proper support to the hull.

Rich,The rollers,are all on the same steps,but one side is always closer, to the outer or inner side of the step.

Strick, I thought about either placing another set of rollers closer to the bow,but I'd have to put another cross member on the trailer.Maybe I can move the whole thing,x member and roller assy. forward a bit.

Ba17,the boat rides level,and sits at the dock,with just a very very tiny bit of list.I shift the weight to balance it when loading.

Unfortunately,the boat is a 6-1/2 hour ride from my home,so i can't easily work on it.Looks like I'll have to schedule a three day trip back up to western NY.
It will be a good excuse to also get some fishing in.

Many Thanks for all the tips and help.

[bigeasy1]

I just found this pic that shows the rear rollers,If you look at them,it seems like I won't be able to get enough spread out of them.
Maybe I could get a couple of inches of spread,but not much more.
If I leave them as is,but move the whole assy. out to the sides,will the inner rollers be to far from the keel,for good support.
So maybe the outside rollers would end up on the outer step,and the inners on the second step.
Not sure if they would be to far from the keel.

[Bushwacker]

John, it looks like if you move the rack assemblies outboard so the outer rollers are just past the outer step like mine are, the inboard rollers, if you can spread them a little, may still be on the inner panel, right about the step between inner and center panels. That would be perfect because those vertical steps are one of the stiffest areas of the hull. I'd spread the rollers as far apart as possible because that should make the boat more stable on the trailer. Those aluminum bars that support the rollers can be moved out so the ends are flush with the plate they rest on, which will put the u-bolts about half an inch from end of bar. The further out you can move the outer rollers the better because that will create more leverage to center the boat and correct any list if it is a little heavier on one side. I really would try to get them on the outer panel and I wouldn't be too concerned with where the inner rollers end up.

SeaCraft hulls are generally so stiff that I don't think you have to worry about bearing loads from the rollers anyway. With the EZ Loader type system, the actual load per roller is quite low; I divided total boat weight by number of rollers on mine and came up with an average of less than 150 lbs/roller. I can wiggle the individual rollers on with the boat sitting on trailer, so that number seems reasonable. Denny

[RS]

I agree with the folks that say you need to move the rollers out. You may also need to add a keel roller to the frame so that the bow does not scrape going on or coming off. It'll also help starting centered.

[stanley]

I had a 23 Formula which has a deep V similar to your boat with a roller trailer. I had the same problem loading my boat on the trailer as I used to partially drive it on and winch the rest of the way. Problem was when I was in the boat because of the V it would list to the right a bit. When I would drive it on it wopuld continue the list to the right because of the weight. I guess u need to make sure the boat sits perfect in the water and does not list to one side because of batteries or oil tanks etc. Once you are square in the water it should come up even....just a thought

[MasterBaiter]

I have always had bunk trailers, but from the pictures I would spread the rollers and add keel rollers. That way the keel takes some of the weight. Get it as low as you can. Your center of gravity will be lower making it tow, load and unload better. The only thing to watch is your tongue weight because it might change as you lower the boat.