Spring Project(s) 74 20SF

[SeaPlusPlus]

Maybe you can show me around your VA playground sometime. Keep up the good work!

Definitely, we need to work out a mid-atlantic get together. Can't let all the Fl boys have all the fun.

I've been waiting patiently for someone to ask. I'll post a picture tomorrow.

Yeah I was wondering about that too haha.

[uncleboo]

I'm ready for a gathering! Can't wait to see your finished project.

[SeaPlusPlus]

Been working on a logo for the boat to go on the hull sides. My SeaCraft stickers on the sides are gonna be the newer style with the metallic gold outline on black. I think the combo looks great on sea foam boats as seen here on this 2001 21':



So I've decided to play on that. Downloaded the logo from the Brands of the World website and used the Sea from that logo to ensure the correct font/spacing/etc. Playing off the computer themed name decided to use binary (1s and 0s) as the interior of the ++'s. These will be visible up close but fade away from a distance and just look filled in.



The gold will obviously not be that yellow, but rather match the gold from the SeaCraft stickers, and the white will be the hull side so all white will be sea foam. Comments? Suggestions? One comment that I got from friends is that it looked like it said Seatt, what do you guys think?

[uncleboo]

I think it looks cool! I don't see the 'Seatt'. I see what you see. Bottom line... it's yours to make what you want of it. You'll probably have to explain it to a few, but, it'll catch on. If it starts to gnaw at you, slide the ++ over a little more for some separation.

[workinpr0gress]

Been working on a logo for the boat to go on the hull sides. My SeaCraft stickers on the sides are gonna be the newer style with the metallic gold outline on black. I think the combo looks great on sea foam boats as seen here on this 2001 21':



So I've decided to play on that. Downloaded the logo from the Brands of the World website and used the Sea from that logo to ensure the correct font/spacing/etc. Playing off the computer themed name decided to use binary (1s and 0s) as the interior of the ++'s. These will be visible up close but fade away from a distance and just look filled in.



The gold will obviously not be that yellow, but rather match the gold from the SeaCraft stickers, and the white will be the hull side so all white will be sea foam. Comments? Suggestions? One comment that I got from friends is that it looked like it said Seatt, what do you guys think?

i like it ....the binary is a nice touch imo....but it's what you like...plus the boat speaks for itself

[BigLew]

i like it ....the binary is a nice touch imo....but it's what you like...plus the boat speaks for itself

Only suggestion I'd consider making is to make the "++" superscript like a mathematical exponent to possibly avoid the tt interpetation/influence.

It looks great and very creative!

[saltyfish7]

Hey SeaPlusPlus,
Amazing project – your posts are awesome. I did my own wiring when I had my 23 and was overall happy. I’m not an electrician and I only follow the law of common sense but your drawing looks good. My comments are purely based off of personal opinion.

• Pole Switch instead of Rocker - I used rocker switches on my project however in hindsight I may have considered pole switches. I think they are more weather resistant since they have an encapsulating rubber boot on them. I like the look/feel of rockers but I had one get a little moody and I’m thinking the poles would be even more robust. You can get the push button circuit breakers with sealed rubber boots also.

• On board Battery charger – I didn’t see one on your drawing. I really liked having one. I prolongs the life of the battery and is easy to just plug in when the boats not in use.

• No direct battery connections - I’m sure a lot of people will disagree but on a trailer boat I don’t like to hard wire anything to the battery except the switch and charger (i.e. no bilge pump). If I leave it in the water I just leave the switch on. I don’t like chancing I’ll get a stray drawl. I’m probably just paranoid though.

• Crimp tool - I used all heat shrink and even bought Ancor’s crimp tool. It’s basically a crimp tool that the crimp is a little wider so it doesn’t cut into the heat shrink and negate the point. http://www.marinco.com/product/singl...p-ratchet-tool

• Exit Strategy - Last, think of how you would disconnect everything if you ever had to take the console off. Perhaps having your fuse and bus bar close to the rigging tube so you could simply unscrew and lift the console off. Most of the wires runs inside the console would simply stay zip tied inside.

Good luck!

Andy

PS: I’m a Software Engineer so I get the Sea ++ innuendo (at least I think I do). Not sure if you’ve explained it to the non-computer-programmers on the forum.

[SeaPlusPlus]

Blue197320 - came from Ebay $125 + $7.99 shipping I shopped around for a while and this was the best price I found. Bought it on a Tuesday and received it Thursday night ground from Fl to Va.

Tucker - I miss labeled that, only have 1 bilge pump, its float switch will be wired to a battery. I have my electronics wired to the switch so that when I leave my boat I can just turn the batteries off and not worry about a stray draw. Ran them like that before and never saw a problem with interference but thanks for the info!

makade - I think I might do that, Instead of getting a On-Off-Momentary switch for the pump I'll get an On-Off-On and then wire the float switch to the bottom with a direct connect to the battery from there. That way like you said when its sitting in my driveway I can just turn it to off and let the water drain through transom vs chancing the pump turning on. I always check it after a big rain anyways.

BigLew - thanks for the input/positive comments!

saltyfish7 - That's one of the cleanest wiring jobs I've seen! That's what I'm hoping to end up with, something as clean as that. I already have the rocker switch so it will have to do, hopefully it lasts, was damn expensive. Charger sounds like a good investment, will look into that.

Got my 21' of LED rope for under the gunwhale.

[deepsushi]

FYI... I have been doing some rewiring myself. I found this ratcheting crimp designed for heat shrink terminals. Works great so far and hard to beat the price

http://www.sailorssolutions.com/inde...ils&Item=WP042

[MasterBaiter]

Invest in a GOOD crimper. Long handles equal less fatigue. A buddy that does industrial wiring told me to use connectors and heat shrink - not heat shrink connectors. The reason is you get better quality connectors and you can use the heat shrink with the adhesive adding to the strength of the connection. I also used coppercoat on the wires to keep a good connection in the crimp.

Good luck and have fun.