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#1
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Hi Jaybo:
Originally my boat was set up that way But I removed the step in part and moved a new 120 gal gas tank forward and made the deck even with the rest of the decking of the boat I also removed the seat part of the door and made it flat like the back rest area. Anyway here is a couple of picture of my over size CC now a days. ![]() ![]() ![]() Moving things forward has helped a lot in re distributing weight and moving my center line forward. FellowShip . Just for the Grins ![]() Official 23 SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner |
#2
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FELLOW -SHIP,
Your boat looks very well thought out and the pics are great. The battery placement is really up front. Do you recall what ga wire you ran to the engine? Your pics have given me several good ideas about other items too. Thank you. Jaybo |
#3
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Under the heading Performance in General Discussions there is a thread talking about wiring gage. There is a couple of web sights that show you the gage needed I went with the recommended gage for my run. I didnt like the cost of wire But the consequence of having to small a wire gage for a longer run is even more costly.
As my wife would say: There are some things in life that Bigger Is Better still holds true. ![]() ![]() The Gage of your Wire times the Length of your Wire is one of them. ![]() ![]() FellowShip . Just for the Grins ![]() Official 23 SF Antique Classic SeaCraft Owner |
#4
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I moved mine from bilge to console. Figured around 130# moved 8 feet forward might help.....oh yes it did.
http://genuinedealz.com/voltage-drop.html Here's the voltage drop calculator thats pretty simple. geuindealz has THE best pricing too. I oversized my runs moving mine forward. Then i added post terminals to drop the wire gauge down to get into the powerhead slots. That way you have a couple of feet of smaller gauge and it fits without the massive voltage drop of running 10x's the length it was rated for. Makes turning the motor way easier too. Troll Fury twin Opti set up ![]() 50amp main ![]() ![]() BEP twin battery Voltage Sensing Relay unit ![]() Get good crimpers. Worth their weight in Gold ![]() Here's the main leads from console to bilge. Then dropped size down for power head. Makes it easy to run the bilge lighting, anchor light, etc...depending on your switch set up. ![]() While your in there, a little 3v LED cheapo light from eBay is the fix for the mini-mag in the mouth when your checking bilge at night. ![]() Little dab of 5200 does it. ![]() ![]()
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20' Mako 175 'rude Sacto, CA looking for a landlocked 23'-25' Seacraft ![]() http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13979 |
#5
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Hi grgrmouse,
Terrific pics detailing various wiring components, neat installation and your boat looks extremely clean. Glad to hear it made a difference....that is what I am hoping for. Thanks very much for the details. Jaybo |
#6
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I like that battery case and set up.
Where did you get that from? Neat appearing and clean.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] "If You Done It...It Ain't Braggin" my rebuild thread: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=18594 |
#7
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Greg
__________________
20' Mako 175 'rude Sacto, CA looking for a landlocked 23'-25' Seacraft ![]() http://classicmako.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13979 |
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