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Great replies guys, thanks so much!
I see the Etec is more power, less moving parts and lighter. Unfortunately my wallet would be lighter by about $1,500 if I go with that. Have to check out the warranties on the two, it may be worthwhile spending the extra $. The numbers you are posting are VERY impressive, I think the etec may be worth the extra $. If I were to run the scuppers out the transom, I would have to go through the livewell, and dry storage. Does anyone see an issue with them going out either side? I really appreciate the feedback so far guys. |
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1971 20'
140 Suzuki 75 gallon fuel tank deck raised 2.5" WOT with full tank of fuel 41-42mph in gallery - "Mark's 1971 20" |
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Mark, if those #'s are 100% accurate, that seals the deal for me. I'll go with the Suzuki.
My neighbor the engineer has a twin vee with twin Zuke 140 4S that have been in tip top shape for years. I know he's done all the maintenance on his( Maybe not adjusting the valves) and is chomping at the bit to show me everything that needs to be done.. Thanks again guys, this is a great site. |
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PM me and I will email you the DF140 manuals I have collected thus far.
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Speaking of warranties, when the E-TECs first came out, they had a 7 year warranty, the first 3 of which were with BRP, and the last 4 with a 3rd party outfit. I understand the current extended warranties are now direct with BRP. They have a great reputation for handling warranty claims, so I would consider that an improvement over the 3rd party deal, although I've had no personal experience with either one.
__________________
'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
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I am going to have to call shenanigans on this... the suzi, yami, and honda maintenance costs are no where near what this guy is posting. He has been all over the site throwing up sort of silly numbers about ETEC versus japanese 4 strokes... makes me wonder if he is on the payroll or something. Go look at the miami show. Go look at what is hanging off of 90% of the legit boat brands that are not owned by engine manufacturers... all yami. And the guys who repower tend to do suzi's for good reason. The bottom line is that you can't go wrong with a 4s or a ficht I mean etec... they are all great engines. Anyone who claims any one of these new engines is way better than any other is any either on the payroll or... go check your local dealer network, buy the cheapest best thing you can. I personally would do a TLDI/Opti over an etech/HPDI based on what happens if you kink your fuel lines, and I would do a DF140 over anything except maybe a TLDI 115. DF140 is a proven motor, even with all of the plastic parts inside. I guess my point is that a new engine, 4s, high pressure or low pressure 2s, porsche turbo charged, whatever, they are all great. DF140 is just a wee bit better than the rest and has the record to prove it. |
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I personally know someone who was 3' from an E-Tec that blew up with flames everywhere. I'm not that brave anymore.
The only flames I've experienced was when Capt. Chuck....wait, that was another incident altogether, nevermind [img]/forum/images/graemlins/tongue.gif[/img] |
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I believe the maintenance cost is a valid issue that merits discussion, because on the surface it simply looks like a scheme for increasing dealer profits. I really wonder how many folks literally follow the recommendations? I had TiVo’d the Shipshape TV Episode on engine maintenance so reviewed it again today to make sure I got it right. (It aired here on 3/21/11) Griviskes interviewed the service manager at the dealer here that I was considering buying a Zuke from. (I notice BRP is now one of his sponsors, so one could argue that he's not exactly unbiased!) Here’s what the service manager quoted on the Suzuki Service Manual Maintenance Requirements: 20 hr service (or 1 Mo.), $300; 50 hr service (or 3 Mo.), $300; 100 hr/1 yr service, $600-650; Total for 3 years: $2400, minimum. Was $2475 for Yamaha. Seems like a lot for what are basically oil changes and greasing a few fittings. I paid $661 for the 3 yr service on the E-TEC, which included water pump change, 2 new thermostats, a poppet valve, and gear oil change. The Albury Boats guy on the show said these services had to be done at dealer or it would void warranty, but I don’t know why you couldn’t do that yourself if you could prove you did it. Car warranties don’t required dealer oil changes. If any owners here know the true story on this issue, I'm sure many of the forum folks would like to know! At 500 hrs, a valve lash check is required for $800. If adjustments are needed that’s more $. I can see where you’d lose some performance it it opened up but I wouldn’t think bucket tappets with shims would change that much in 500 hrs. The old Jags had that setup and I don't recall them requiring checks that often. Like most folks considering a repower, I initially figured that 4-strokes were the only way to go and I had been watching their development for several years. I initially considered the Zuke 115 and then the 140 and I was impressed by their attention to significant engineering details, such as the chain cam drive bathed in oil at the bottom of the motor and the offset driveshaft that lets them get more gear reduction to swing a bigger more efficient prop without the drag of a large diameter bullet in the gearcase. The Suzuki’s are still my favorite 4 stroke motor for those reasons. I've previously discussed why I picked the E-TEC. I was admittedly skeptical about the new technology, but discussions with a colleague of mine that is now the chief engineer of the BRP test center in Stuart convinced me that all of the Ficht horror stories were irrelevant and that BRP had figured out the problems and fixed them. Subsequent experience has exceeded expectations. Also nice to see a “Made in USA” product be so competitive for a change! I think we're in agreement that all of the new motors are a big improvement from what was available only a few years ago. As far as fuel restrictions causing problems, ANY piston engine is susceptible to overheated/seized pistons if subjected to lean conditions from a clogged injector, and the extra oxygen molecule in ethanol certainly makes the lean fire hotter. Also the more overpowered you are, the less likely you are to notice a problem until it’s too late! I once had a plugged high speed jet in my old 115 that I might not have noticed if I’d had a V-6. At least the new oil injected DI motors still get oil under those conditions instead of being starved for gas AND oil as in the old days with a plugged jet! A thermocouple in the exhaust (an Exhaust Gas Temperature or EGT sensor) like used on some HD diesels, would detect on extra-lean situation. Will be interesting to see if an enterprising guy comes up with an aftermarket gage for that! Sorry for the long post, but my conscience just couldn’t let this one go unchallenged! DonV – I’m not a Scotch drinker, but I’ll have some fine ancient Bourbon imported from Kentucky at our next gathering that I'll be happy to share! ![]()
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'72 SeaFari/150E-Tec/Hermco Bracket, owned since 1975. http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z...Part2019-1.jpg |
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