89 18sf Project/rebuild/restore started

[Bigshrimpin]

150GT:

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ighlight=150gt

[alexh]

Originally Posted by Bigshrimpin

150GT:

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthre...ighlight=150gt

Part of me wants to hold onto the motor because it does run so good. On the other hand I do believe I could get a reasonable amount for it if I tried to sell it. All depends on if I can/cannot come across a deal on repower.

Still haven't decided on core material, but I'm headed down to the supplier this Friday, so ill have to decide between coosa, corecell, or nidacode, OR mg ply. I plan on bedding the core in thickened epoxy and a layer of 1708 over top that and calling it done.

The boat sat under a tree for 90% of summer which is why the boat is covered in black crap now.

[alexh]

1/2" mg ply came in today so I made up the coring for the caps. Composite would have been nice, but I really cannot justify the cost. Made a template out of 1/4" scrap, transferred the template to the mg ply and cut the pieces out on the bandsaw. Ran a 1/2" round on the bottom sides to match up with the inside radius and then cut the coring into 5"-6" sections.

Cleaned up underside:


Corner that will need some work once the coring is in. A final stripped screw led to me just ripping the cap off:


Coring fit and cut into place:


Tonight I picked up some 24/50 grit 7" discs to make short work of the nonskid. It was a pain with a 5" DA so this should help. Friday I am picking up 5gal resin, 25yd of 1708, fillers/putty/everything else I need for the time being. Should be a productive weekend if its windy or raining and I cant fish.
-alex

[gw204]

Originally Posted by alexh

1/2" mg ply came in today so I made up the coring for the caps. Composite would have been nice, but I really cannot justify the cost.

That's what I told myself when I was core shopping for the transom in my Mako. I originally wanted to go with a sheet of 1-1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26, but couldn't bring myself to fork over the $400+ for it. Ended up spending about $150 for two sheets of 3/4" marine ply...and then didnt' get a good bond between them. Bought two more sheets and did it over... So, I ended up saving around $50. :-(


Looks like a great project. The 18 was no. 1 on my list, but I could never find one.

[alexh]

Originally Posted by gw204

That's what I told myself when I was core shopping for the transom in my Mako. I originally wanted to go with a sheet of 1-1/2" Coosa Bluewater 26, but couldn't bring myself to fork over the $400+ for it. Ended up spending about $150 for two sheets of 3/4" marine ply...and then didnt' get a good bond between them. Bought two more sheets and did it over... So, I ended up saving around $50. :-(


Looks like a great project. The 18 was no. 1 on my list, but I could never find one.

Yeah, I know poly resins and mg plywood are on the bottom of the list for most rebuild materials used, but I've had good results with a previous project, and there's no reason why it shouldn't last another 20 years if done correctly. I REALLY like the layout on the 18sf as far as getting a little more toe room with the gunnel caps. I still would have scooped up a 20 if I had come across the same deal, though.

[alexh]

Pulled the gas tank hatch this weekend, while the gunnel caps were being worked. Same story, watersoaked core. Ripped out the coring and prepped the surface for new coring which will go in tomorrow evening.

HEAVY


coring:


45* edges were made with foam:


Once I pulled the tank cover, I noticed there was no coffin box for the fuel tank, and the tank they had made BARELY fits through the original opening. Tabs screwed right to stringers. Two bulkheads were installed and since its an original deck, they only glassed the tank side of the bulkhead because that's all they had access to. Ive already pulled one out by hand. Hopefully the screws into the stringers didn't let in a ton of water and they aren't saturated as well - we'll see this weekend. Still need to fill/fair the console and gunnel caps this week/weekend. If I find the time I plan on draining and pulling the tank, pressure testing it, cleaning and covering it in coal tar epoxy if its in good enough shape.

-alex.

[bly]

I have had one of these for a while but for many years could not see paying all that money. For removing old cores it is great. It is like using a small or miniature jack hammer. Not much dust. mostly solid pieces. You do have to be careful you do not cut into the glass of the hatch that the core is attached to. It is a leaned experience that I wish I learned along time ago. I still use a grinder but not near as much.