Input wanted on 225 Ocean Runner

[DonV]

Hey Danny

Junk that old 225 and get one of these!!!!! You WILL be bad!

http://www.seven-marine.com

[76Red18]

On my 150 ocean pro, it would be the idle air screw set about a 1/4 turn too lean on 1 of the 6 carbs.

[Bushwacker]

Danny,

That misfire seemed to be somewhat intermittent, so I think Red18's lean idle mix theory is a good one; a bad coil would probably give a continuous misfire. However I'm not sure if your carbs have an idle mix adjustment screw. My 115 had fixed jets for both low and high speed circuits. As a pretty mildly tuned motor, it always had a real smooth idle, but it would misfire whenever I had a clogged low speed jet, which is a possibility if motor sat for more than a month or so with fuel in carbs, especially with premix fuel. Don't know about your motor but both the low and high speed jets were easily accessible W/O removing the carbs on my old V-4! There was a brass screw that covered each high and low speed jet, so just pull the brass screw and look in there with a good light to see if it's plugged; you can remove the jet with a small screw driver or just stick a wood toothpick into it to clean it. Just be careful not to drop any of the screws! Maybe put a rag underneath to catch anything that drops! You might have to remove some of the throttle linkage or fuel hoses to get to all of them. A service manual should show the location of the jets/access screws and tell you which one is the low and high speed jet.

Before you start screwing with the carbs I'd suggest you make up a spark checker to keep on the boat for troubleshooting, like I did for my old 115 based on a picture in the service manual, to see if you have a weak coil. Here's what I came up with, which I think is an improvement on the service manual tool:

1. Get a big PVC cap . . . I think I used 2" for the V-4; you might want to go to 3" for a V-6; spray paint the inside of cap with flat black paint to make spark more visible in bright sunlight.
2. Get 7 1/4-20 SS machine screws about 3" long with threads the entire length of screw.
3. Drill one hole in center of cap using a No. 7 or 13/64 bit, and tap for 1/4-20 threads (make sure hole is SQUARE with top of cap!); get a long piece of wire, put a big alligator clip on one end and put a 1/4" ring terminal on other end. (I used a solid 14 ga piece of copper house wiring because it's stiffness helps support the whole works when you're testing). Install one screw in center so it extends into cap with the wire terminal underneath it on outside. This will be your ground electrode.
4. Drill 6 equally spaced holes (every 60 degrees around outside circumference) in side of cap, about 1/2" from end of cap; tap holes for 1/4-20 threads.
5. Cut heads off the 6 remaining screws.
6. Install the 6 screws into cap; adjust so that there is a 7/16 gap between them and the center electrode. Use a 7/16 nut (which happens to be the size that fits a 1/4-20 machine screw) as a gage to set the gap. Make sure you have at least on inch or so of screw protruding on outside of cap at all 6 locations.
7. Pull all 6 spark plug leads and attach them to each of the 6 screws sticking out of side of cap (the 1/4" screws are just the right size for plug leads to make a good connection); attach ground lead to a good ground on motor.
8. Turn on water to flushing attachment (Don't even crank the motor without feeding water to pump, to protect impeller!), and have someone crank motor while you watch cap for a spark jumping gap at all six locations.
9. If you don't get a spark on a cylinder, you may have a bad coil on that cylinder; if no spark on one bank of cylinders, you may have a bad power pack on that side. A healthy ignition system will typically throw a spark over a 1/2" or larger gap, so if it won't jump at least a 7/16" gap, something is wrong!

This test checks the entire ignition system, from sensor coils in the stator assembly that trigger the capacitor in the power pack, to the power pack and coils. It's a simple test that I used to run whenever I was planning to run offshore after the motor had been sitting a long time. Good luck with the trouble shooting! Denny

[Snookerd]

hermit-Thanks for idea on the lean pop and the Napa spark checker
Sandy-Thanks for those guys phone #. The lean condition does seem to be a big possibilty. The grocery bills are getting higher these days with Corbin's appetite!
Don-Your readin my mind! Now that's some power! in need lost2a6 to help me with the install
76Red-Thanks for your input I will check on the idle air screw
Denny-That's a great detailed plan for the spark check prior to the carb check

A buddy of mine who changed out the VRO pump on Sat, noticed that the RED manual choke adjustment was positioned in the up position. He said it was supposed to be pionting down.

I appreciate the time and effort from everyone. That's what is so cool about CSC-all the help

[thehermit]

[QUOTE=
A buddy of mine who changed out the VRO pump on Sat, noticed that the RED manual choke adjustment was positioned in the up position. He said it was supposed to be pionting down.

I appreciate the time and effort from everyone. That's what is so cool about CSC-all the help[/QUOTE]


That would be the primer solonoid (sp?). By pushing in your key in...it squirts a shot of gas into the reed block. By turning the red handle it allows fuel to manually bypass its way into the reed block. If that was the issue.....you scored! Those simple problems never happen to me!

[Snookerd]

ESD and thehermit-I think the power pack has been replaced. It has a blue cover and says CDI on it. So are you saying the red primer lever needs to be down when not manually bypassing the key switch primer?

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Snookerd

ESD and thehermit-I think the power pack has been replaced. It has a blue cover and says CDI on it. So are you saying the red primer lever needs to be down when not manually bypassing the key switch primer?

Yes. Was optical eye replaced. Standard practice when replacing PPack.