Battery switch ?

[sidelock]

I need to install a battery switch in my 18SF since it does not have one & I'm undecided on where to locate it. I would prefer to install it in the center console but that would leave the tilt switch on the motor live/active since the two heavy leads from the motor are hooked directly to the battery terminals. The other choice would be to install it in the rear/transom battery compartment where the cranking battery is & hook it up between the motor & the battery connection & that would also address the tilt switch issue . Which way should it be ? Does it boil down to personal preference/choice or is there a right/wrong way to install it ? Should the switch shut the power off to the entire boat including the tilt switch or should the tilt switch be left active for practical/other reasons ?

[Wildman]

Put it under your console, along with the battery, make new cables if you have to. I like my switch to turn the WHOLE boat off, as its a trailer boat and the bilge pumps dont need to run like a boat that is in a slip or mooring.
I also like the ACR system, if you are running 2 battery's, here is an article and diagram on how to wire them.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?docId=170

[oldfielder]

You want that power off for sure when not in use Does the motor have enough wire in the harness to bring those leads up to the console?
If you want to get new cables made, genuinedealz is definitely the place to do it.
If you decide to do two batteries the blue sea's "add a battery" is a nice little combo that comes with the switch and ACR. I just wired two of them and it is nice stuff.
Or you can just do the switch. Either way it's win win when you move that battery weight forward in the boat.

[DonV]

Yes Sir on genuinedealz.com, however I would not order the heavy duty lugs next time on battery cables.....serious overkill! The Blue Sea "ACR" is great, I have one battery as engine starting battery and one deep cycle as the house battery.

[Wildman]

I also like how the electronics don't get a Jolt when you shut down and restart the engine! No waiting for the gps to reboot!

[sidelock]

I didn't realize it could get so complicated, I also have two batteries for the new MinnKota going in the front fish box as well as an onboard charger. I wasn't planning on moving the starting battery from the transom to the console because I thought the weight of the two AGM batteries in the bow would compensate for the weight. I thought I would keep them seperate/isolated & simple but it seems like other components need to be added to the equation such as an ACR, new/longer outboard cables,starting battery relocation etc. At least the previous owner left a couple of fish/lines from the rear battery compartment to the console for future addition of wires/cables when he replaced the fuel tank,so that shouldn't be too much of an issue if I decide to relocate the starting battery.
How difficult/possible would it be to fish wires from the front fish box of an 18'SF to the console should I choose to integrade the electric motor batteries & the relocated starting battery ? Any idea how much it woul cost to have longer cables made ?

[Old'sCool]

Genuinedealz is the ticket for wiring. Visit their site and price them out. There's a voltage drop calculator there also. Get the "add-a-battery". I moved mine under the console and added a positive and negative post mounted to transom, engine leads go there and new cables to console go there. The third is the additional charging lead I'm not using. If there's room in your rigging tube it's not that bad to pull new one's just make sure the length.

[Normagain]

I know the ACR type systems are popular but using two deep cycle batteries is still a good option. I just alternate trips on them to keep them fresh. I do overnight trips on one deep cycle running a bait tank all night and have never run them down low enough to cause starting issues.

[oldfielder]

That system seems fine too. I have just been happy using the combiner the last few years and have had excellent longevity out of Seahawks SLA batteries with it. I like the idea of both betteries being conditioned on each trip, especially if I won't be out for a while.
If you are disciplined enought to rotate batteries then forego the ACR.
The yandina combiner is a nice alternative,as well, because it comes with all of the leads and is a simpler install. It does not protect against the voltage drop at startup, though, like the blue seas.

[bumpdraft]

I would leave the starting battery back near the motor. I have one deep cycle battery on a switch and it powers everything but the motor. I have a cranking battery hooked up straight to the motor, no switch. I have not had a problem this way and it has worked the best for me. I just replaced my cranking battery a few weeks ago. Not because I was having problems, but I got to looking at it and saw that it was 8 years old! I replaced with new one and I'm now using the old battery in my camper. A friend of mine has his batteries hooked up together on a switch and it drives me nuts every time he starts his engine and spikes the GPS.