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Dave
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Blue Heron Boat Works Reinventing the wheel, one spoke at a time. |
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Her is what I did on mine. The two that sit on the outside of the cabin door threshold have screens. The two that are inside the cabin are bronze fittings epoxied flush with the deck. The balsa core was in good shape on my boat.
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
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Blue_Heron-
You have a good point about freezing the corrugated hose, I hadn't thought past the $11 a roll , vs. $3 a foot part. I am of two minds on the strainers. I hadn't thought a lot about debris, more about the ability to drain away water quickly- hence the 1" diameter. If they do go to a small "settling tank" (and the debris sinks- it might not), then the settling tank has a slightly elevated bilge pump, then that might work without a screen. But a topside screen fixes most of this straight away. Except for leaves. Which both are vulnerable to. I think I will keep looking. Or buy some schedule 80 PVC and make a deck fitting with a shoulder on it in the lathe. Strick- Thanks for documentation on demand! I really should take more pictures. I might also look for the screened drains on line at Jamestown or Hamilton next. Last edited by FishStretcher; 04-02-2013 at 07:31 AM. |
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This is the cockpit- (I stitched together 2 cell phone photos so it is warped)
I need to remove some wet balsa and fill holes. I drilled them out to get rid of cracked glass and get access to soaked balsa core. I plan to foam fill and put "water putty", then vinyl ester, then gel coat. You can see the track of the bilge hose out of the left corner, across the deck and out the port side. The 1-1/4" hose was reduced and put thru a 5/8" thru-hull! ![]() Oh yeah, and they couldn't be bothered to remove the wood decking they put in the cockpit before splashing it with stain... |
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The 5/8 thru hull was probably originally for the optional galley sink exhaust.
Congrats FishStretcher! Great boat! |
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![]() strick
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"I always wanted to piss in the Rhine" (General George Patton upon entering Germany) |
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I am modifying my engine cover to use no hinges- they tear out of the deck. I will use Southco rubber t-handle draw latches with stainless clips. Available on Amazon or Reid supply for less than I paid from McMaster Carr, I think.
![]() I drilled and tapped some scrap 1/2" thick 5083 aluminum for nut plates. I hate holding onto nylock nuts on one side of the panel when torquing on the other- this is easier and spreads the load. $2.99 assortments of stainless hardware from Harbor Freight (lots of 10-24 screws) finishes it out. Last edited by FishStretcher; 04-10-2013 at 10:01 PM. Reason: spelling and grammar |
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So for year 1 on the holes in the deck and cockpit sole I am enlarging the screw holes, digging out damp balsa, filling with great stuff expanding foam (just tiny amounts), and capping with water putty/ PC11 epoxy putty. The PC11 is MUCH easier to work with. Like bondo in consistency, not clay. Water putty is too firm, in my opinion.
Then vinylester barrier coat from duratec, then gel coat, then kiwi grip. Plus nut plates with captive nuts for the 9" base Todd captain and fighting chairs. 6 on a 8.25" bolt circle. Looks like 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 will do. Plus some Seadek for the engine cover. I just started putting all the rehab/mods in a separate thread for the boat. Now named Bass Relief. The thread is here: http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=25405 Last edited by FishStretcher; 05-07-2013 at 10:53 PM. Reason: link to repair/mod thread |
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I got some draw latch shrouds roughed in, too. They need finishing, but I got my hands on some scrap AZEK and like it. Not cheap, but convenient. I am still cleaning them up. This is fresh off the coping saw.
With this, nobody loses an achilles tendon to a draw latch. |
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