The Cape Cod Crusader

[Blue_Heron]

Originally Posted by FishStretcher

My home depot plan goes from 1" drains thru to 1-1/4" hose.

I would stay away from that corrugated hose. It gets brittle with age and breaks. Any solids that find their way down the drain will hang up in the corrugation. It will be difficult to support in a way that consistently drains. If it holds water, your arctic winters are going to freeze it and break it. Just sayin'.

Dave

[ScottM]

Originally Posted by Blue_Heron

I would stay away from that corrugated hose. It gets brittle with age and breaks. Any solids that find their way down the drain will hang up in the corrugation. It will be difficult to support in a way that consistently drains. If it holds water, your arctic winters are going to freeze it and break it. Just sayin'.

Dave

And never use it on your bilge pumps.

[strick]

Her is what I did on mine. The two that sit on the outside of the cabin door threshold have screens. The two that are inside the cabin are bronze fittings epoxied flush with the deck. The balsa core was in good shape on my boat.

[FishStretcher]

Blue_Heron-
You have a good point about freezing the corrugated hose, I hadn't thought past the $11 a roll , vs. $3 a foot part.

I am of two minds on the strainers. I hadn't thought a lot about debris, more about the ability to drain away water quickly- hence the 1" diameter. If they do go to a small "settling tank" (and the debris sinks- it might not), then the settling tank has a slightly elevated bilge pump, then that might work without a screen. But a topside screen fixes most of this straight away. Except for leaves. Which both are vulnerable to.

I think I will keep looking. Or buy some schedule 80 PVC and make a deck fitting with a shoulder on it in the lathe.

Strick-

Thanks for documentation on demand! I really should take more pictures. I might also look for the screened drains on line at Jamestown or Hamilton next.

[FishStretcher]

This is the cockpit- (I stitched together 2 cell phone photos so it is warped)
I need to remove some wet balsa and fill holes. I drilled them out to get rid of cracked glass and get access to soaked balsa core. I plan to foam fill and put "water putty", then vinyl ester, then gel coat.
You can see the track of the bilge hose out of the left corner, across the deck and out the port side. The 1-1/4" hose was reduced and put thru a 5/8" thru-hull!
Oh yeah, and they couldn't be bothered to remove the wood decking they put in the cockpit before splashing it with stain...

[seafari25]

The 5/8 thru hull was probably originally for the optional galley sink exhaust.

Congrats FishStretcher!

Great boat!

[strick]

Originally Posted by FishStretcher

The 1-1/4" hose was reduced and put thru a 5/8" thru-hull!
Oh yeah, and they couldn't be bothered to remove the wood decking they put in the cockpit before splashing it with stain...

What animals would do that!

strick

[FishStretcher]

I am modifying my engine cover to use no hinges- they tear out of the deck. I will use Southco rubber t-handle draw latches with stainless clips. Available on Amazon or Reid supply for less than I paid from McMaster Carr, I think. I plan on using bits of AZEK (TM) white cellular PVC trim from Home Depot around the sides on the cover side so the metal clip isn't an ankle hazard or deck hazard when the latches are unfastened or the cover is laid on it's side on the deck.

I drilled and tapped some scrap 1/2" thick 5083 aluminum for nut plates. I hate holding onto nylock nuts on one side of the panel when torquing on the other- this is easier and spreads the load. $2.99 assortments of stainless hardware from Harbor Freight (lots of 10-24 screws) finishes it out.

[FishStretcher]

So for year 1 on the holes in the deck and cockpit sole I am enlarging the screw holes, digging out damp balsa, filling with great stuff expanding foam (just tiny amounts), and capping with water putty/ PC11 epoxy putty. The PC11 is MUCH easier to work with. Like bondo in consistency, not clay. Water putty is too firm, in my opinion.

Then vinylester barrier coat from duratec, then gel coat, then kiwi grip.

Plus nut plates with captive nuts for the 9" base Todd captain and fighting chairs. 6 on a 8.25" bolt circle. Looks like 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 will do.

Plus some Seadek for the engine cover.

I just started putting all the rehab/mods in a separate thread for the boat. Now named Bass Relief. The thread is here:

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...ad.php?t=25405

[FishStretcher]

I got some draw latch shrouds roughed in, too. They need finishing, but I got my hands on some scrap AZEK and like it. Not cheap, but convenient. I am still cleaning them up. This is fresh off the coping saw.

With this, nobody loses an achilles tendon to a draw latch.