What material for Risers?

[flyingfrizzle]

This is how I plan on doing the floor in my 20' cc. Billythekid did an awesome job on this one. Your stringers may be the twin wide ones instead of the quads but you can do it about the same way. Molding the floor section will make for a lot less sanding in the end vs laying the wood down, laying glass on top of it in the boat then fairing and sanding your brains out.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...=18607&page=14

[fishmore2013]

I don't think mine will come out like that. What a great job! I did pull the floor up tonite and this is what I found, see pic
I am picking up 3/4 marine plywood tomorrow and will probably use the plywood to get the correct deck height.
Any reccomendation on which scuppers to use for through transom?
Thanks again to everyone replying, the expertise on this website is great.
Jon

[parrott]

Originally Posted by flyingfrizzle

This is how I plan on doing the floor in my 20' cc. Billythekid did an awesome job on this one. Your stringers may be the twin wide ones instead of the quads but you can do it about the same way. Molding the floor section will make for a lot less sanding in the end vs laying the wood down, laying glass on top of it in the boat then fairing and sanding your brains out.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...=18607&page=14

That floor is nice but time consuming also. I just like the fact that running some ss screws in the deck is that much more secure. Done right u shouldnt have to worry bout water intrusion. And running the cloth from one side of the floor to other ties it in well. I know the three different floors ive ripped up came up pretty easy w just the potter putty.
Fish u could just take 2" strips laminated together and outline the box stringers to desired height. plus u will want something around the perimeter of the hull for the floor to rest on too.

[flyingfrizzle]

Originally Posted by parrott

That floor is nice but time consuming also. I just like the fact that running some ss screws in the deck is that much more secure. Done right u shouldnt have to worry bout water intrusion. And running the cloth from one side of the floor to other ties it in well. I know the three different floors ive ripped up came up pretty easy w just the potter putty.
Fish u could just take 2" strips laminated together and outline the box stringers to desired height. plus u will want something around the perimeter of the hull for the floor to rest on too.

I agree with the time consumption, I takes longer to mold a floor but you dont have to do all of the fairing and sanding to true it up vs screwing it down and glassing in place. You will spend time either way. I rather spend mine making a mold table vs sanding and fairing. It still will take longer doing the mold but I feel like it makes a better looking, truer, straighter floor.

Far as the screw thing, The screws hold well till water gets in around them and soaks into the wood. I have pulled several redone floors apart including the one I am working on now and it seems like there is always more rot around the screw holes. The top of the screws gets sealed well but you cant really get to the back side to seal the wood where you added it to raise the stringers. You can back them out and add resin then put them back in and that will help but you will not have the same waterproof as if it was left just bonded down with thickened epoxy. I have used screws in the past myself but have tried to stop doing it under the deck area...

Either way it will last a long time, The main reason I started doing floors this was is I dont like all the sanding and fairing.

More than one way to skin a cat! Thats just my 2 cents. Im not a pro so take it for what it is worth.

[fishmore2013]

I Finally removed the rest of the floor and now on to the new floor install. You were right about the Potter Putty(in the original floor). The last floor was unlaminated 3/4 inch plywood that was rotted. At least the inner hull looks to be in good shape. Pretty amazing after all the neglect!

[fishmore2013]

Can anyone comment on the set up and placement of weight in these boats?
Old set up
2 main batteries all the way aft behind and up against the gas tank(plastic), 3 car batteries for the trolling motor located all the way in the forward compartment.
Potential new set up-
3 trolling motor batteries located at same level as the gas tank(below floor) under the front of the Centerconsole and then the 2 main batteries on the deck under the centerconsole.
I would think the more weight located lower in the hull would be better?
The pic is of the old Battrey compartment located in the area about two feet infront of the transom below the floor.
Thanks Jon

[parrott]

Originally Posted by fishmore2013

Can anyone comment on the set up and placement of weight in these boats?
Old set up
2 main batteries all the way aft behind and up against the gas tank(plastic), 3 car batteries for the trolling motor located all the way in the forward compartment.
Potential new set up-
3 trolling motor batteries located at same level as the gas tank(below floor) under the front of the Centerconsole and then the 2 main batteries on the deck under the centerconsole.
I would think the more weight located lower in the hull would be better?
The pic is of the old Battrey compartment located in the area about two feet infront of the transom below the floor.
Thanks Jon

50gal gas tank pushed up forward. Prolly the front was past the fishbox bulkhead a foot or so. Two batteries under console. Floor raised 4". Selfbailed good w 3/4 guys and baitwell under leaning post full. Raising it only 2-3" will not selfbail w people in it...trust me.
As far as wood. Makes boat ride better w the weight. These boats like weight and some big tabs that can keep the bow down. Couple hot coats of resin on bottom side is all u need. Especially using 3/4". All I used was two layers of 1.5oz mat on top of floor. Tabbed the sides of floor in w 1708 too. Unless u drill out all mounting holes in composite mess u will have holes that will not hold screws over time and also places where the glass gets compressed. We really dont know how composites will hold up over time cause it hasnt been used n boats that long. Wood has lasted 40+ yrs.....so why spend the extra $$. Honestly I wouldnt want a all composite boat. Why do u want a light boat for gas efficiency but will not ride good, which n effect will make u go slower, which means more gas and taking longer to get somewhere. Defeating the purpose of going light. Chances are it was not done properly and and the way I fish and whatnot I would have all the holes "wolard" out. Plus ive seen where the epoxy plugs put n where screws go pop out. Then.....wow....u have a mess on ur hands. What happens when the compsite breaks down from getting crushed and screws after screws being run in it. Basically back to square one and u have done spent a whole lot of $$ on the composite stuff. After ripping out the 1/2" floor in this 67' model that was just hot coated on the bottom I am totally convinced proper care and it will last. No rotten wood n the floor. Not one square inch.
As far as hull goes. No need to coat w any resin or paint. Just a waste. Unless u plan on keeping the bilge and hull full of water then u wont have to worry about the poly soaking up water. Actually u want the poly to breath so it can dry out when it doesnt have direct water on it. Plus ur never gonna c under the floor.
You can ask the guy who bought my boat and he will tell u it is set up just right. Cours3 it has the heaviest 4stroke motor, it still performs better then any seacraft him or I have been in . He is a member here and thehulltruth