Keep it simple. Rebuilding a 20 into a no frills fishing/work boat.

[WildBill]

Bisphenol A diglycidyl ether (commonly abbreviated BADGE or DGEBA) is a chemical compound used as constituent of epoxy resins. It is a derivative of bisphenol A that is used in epoxy resins for its cross-linking properties.[1]

Many standard epoxies are based on a formula containing diglycidyl ethers, including BADGE.[2] Epoxy resins are crosslinked using hardeners (curing agents). The most common curing agents for epoxy resins are polyamines, aminoamides and phenolic compounds.[3]

BADGE is listed as an IARC Group 3 carcinogen, meaning it is "not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity to humans".[4] From the 1990s onward, concern has been raised over this possible carcinogenicity because BADGE is also used in epoxy resins in the lining of some tin cans for foodstuffs, and unreacted BADGE may end up in the contents of those cans.[1]

DARN; you can't even drink a Diet Coke

[Basketcase]

The kevlar is an interesting idea! I think this project is going to wait until spring. I don't have a heated work space so weather is crucial. With the cold weather I just dont want to roll the dice. I also don't have enough resin to complete the job in one lamination so I think it's best to wait until spring and I'll get another pail and go at it. I may do some templates for the deck over the next few weeks, and maybe start on the mold for the transom boxes/cap but I think fabrication is done for the year.

[Basketcase]

So its getting to be time to order a fuel tank for this boat. Looks like I have a few options. Poly, aluminum, or stainless. Which one would be best suited for an under deck application? I do not plan to have an access hatch. Im planning on installing it and putting the deck on top with an access for the fill/sender etc. I know if I ever need to replace it that I have to cut the deck up but I'm not afraid of that. Any thoughts?

[FishStretcher]

Plastic can't corrode. Metal can. You can look at my tank if you are interested- it isn't in yet.

[FishStretcher]

One more thing with plastic. You are supposed to put a foam pad (neoprene?) between it and the structure surrounding it. Ostensibly for expansion, but I expect for surface irregularities, too. I plan on foam wrapping mine and 2 part urethane foaming in place. Haven't done it yet.

[Basketcase]

That makes a lot of sense. I really like the idea of foaming in a tank because we all know how well that stuff sticks to EVERYTHING (except most plastics) and i feel with a good cradle and some foam poured around it that the tank is quite secure. Since foaming in an aluminum tank leads to its early demise then a plastic tank just seems logical.

[Basketcase]

It's been a while so I figured Id post some updates. I did go with a plastic tank and did NOT foam it in, per Moeller's instructions. They said that foaming it in would not allow for expansion and would void the warranty. This tank had 8 screw bosses in the top that I used to secure the tank with in addition to some stainless straps that I had made by a friend. I left a .5" gap all around and used neoprene foam in between the straps and tank and also a .5" pad underneath it. It's quite secure.

I'm a little farther along than I have pictures of. When I put it to bed for winter I had glassed in all of the deck. I used 2 layers of some 24oz cloth I got for cheap. It looks just like 1708 but MUCH thicker. All vinyl ester resin. The underside of the deck has one layer of this cloth on it.

To secure the deck to the stringers I used a billion tubes of 5200 and stainless deck screws. Once the deck was secure I hole sawed some small holes and poured foam into the two outer stringer bays and portions of the inner ones. The outer bays will be SEALED with no protrusions (screws, etc) so there should be no chance of water intrusion to the foam. In the inner bays, since water intrusion is possible, I covered a piece of 3/4" pex tube in mold release before I poured in the foam and pulled it out after to leave a channel at the lowest point so hopefully gravity will help me out if water does seep in.

By pouring the foam in after the deck is in, it is able to completely fill the cavity and also gives extra adhesion of the whole assembly. Anyone who has tried to pull foamed parts apart will understand. I did this on my other boat and it worked great. You just have to be sure not to do too much at once or there is a real risk of popping the deck from the pressure.

Once the foam was in I then did my two layers of glass over the entire thing, sealing the foam holes and all the screws. I feel bad for whoever tries to get this deck off some day.

On to the pictures!

[FishStretcher]

Nice work! How's the itch? You haven't been taking advantage of el nino and glassing in January, have you? Also, how did you like the styrene monomer?

[Basketcase]

Nah. I haven't glassed since the fall. I took down the "boathouse" and put the hull in storage. The styrene worked great. Really helped saturate the ply but this resin is so thin it does a decent job by itself. Looking forward to good weather to get back at it. Because of where I put the hole for the fuel tank stuff I've pretty much locked myself in to building my own console. If what I have in my head turns into fiberglass it should be a sweet console.

[Basketcase]

I think I win the award for slowest build but there is progress! I made a new fish box and I have to say it came out aces. Made a male mold. Sprayed with gelcoat and glassed the heck out of it. Also added some divinycell coring in certain areas. I believe it to be much larger than the original although I cannot say since I never had it. It will not drain overboard and will have a drain to the bilge. It will basically be for dry storage when traveling to the island house. Groceries etc. On to the pics. I'm very happy with it. The dark stuff is some of the mold that came with it. I suspect it will come off with some effort (I pva'd the crap out of it) but even if it doesn't, it wont be seen anyway. For size reference, the inside width at the widest point is 48".