Quick Prince DP2 windlass

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by Terry England

Mike, Don't clutter the bow of that pretty little Powder Blue SeaFari up with a bunch of stuff you don't need. It ain't a Parker barge! Your'er not going to be fishing over 50' deep - get a plow or wishbone anchor on a swivel and an anchor ball. Throw it out in the morning, drag it around behind you all day and pick it up at night. Lots of rock piles off of Hernando, Bud. Martin, Kmoose and I don't cott'in to no wash down pumps or anchor winches! Don't clutter your life up with sh!t to fix - go fish'in instead.

Terry is spot on with this. There is always an attraction to add nice options on the cheap but even if it is free there is a cost. I am certainly not one to preach against gadgets and gizmos with buttons and lights but over the years I have discovered exactly what Terry is stating. Anything you hook to the battery is something else to maintain and repair. That said, it better be worth the effort and provide comparable reliability as manual options. That is a rare attribute for many things on a boat that run on dc power.

If you had a 35' cabin cruiser a windless may be a viable option to pull a heavy hook and rode if you didn't want to interrupt martini time with some lady friends on the back deck but for our boats a good small Fortress with 15' of stainless chain, small anchor ball and a milk crate borrowed from the back of a grocery store will serve you well for all your anchoring needs in a much quicker and maintenance free package. Save the money for a good gps plotter and sounder. Terry and I will make sure you have plenty of spots to put on it.

[Vezo, Part II]

Ok, well said. So if fishing alone a good bit, or with not so careful novices, send them below and up through the hatch, is a sufficient solution? I agree, I'm not on my buddies Parker pilot house.

Thanks.

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

Ok, well said. So if fishing alone a good bit, or with not so careful novices, send them below and up through the hatch, is a sufficient solution? I agree, I'm not on my buddies Parker pilot house.

Thanks.

Let me know when you want to come over for day on the water or when you are taking your sled out and I will run through the motions on handling this yourself with ease. The thinking is a little out of the box but once you see it done you will never have to go to the bow to set and pull your anchor again.

[Vezo, Part II]

Freaking cool! Thanks Moose, will take you up on that for sure! Currently there is No opening in deck to anchor locker. Only from inside cuddly thru hatch. And no bow rail.

[Handful in NC]

It is so refreshing to participate in a forum where people have some common sense and are so willing to help others.

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by Handful in NC

It is so refreshing to participate in a forum where people have some common sense and are so willing to help others.

Yeah I like this place too. Mike is a great guy and I know he is working hard to get his sled where it needs to be without spending a mint.

[kmoose]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

Freaking cool! Thanks Moose, will take you up on that for sure! Currently there is No opening in deck to anchor locker. Only from inside cuddly thru hatch. And no bow rail.

We can fix that too but I don't think you need it. As long as you have a cleat and rode guide you will be good to go. Here is a link to the anchor I use. Very light and excellent holding in sand. Claws and deltas work ok but I find them all the time as they drag until they hit the reef and often get stuck. For Anchoring on small rock piles these types of hooks do great as you anchor in the sand and drift back to the rockpile. Many will argue which is the best but I really like this style and so do several of my commercial friends if that says anything.
http://fortressanchors.com/selection...h=17&Unit=Feet

The Fortress and Guardian are basically the same anchor with one that is anodized and a lot more money. Pick what ever one you like. Their selection chart says the G7 will work on your sled but you could go up one size if you like but I don't think it is necessary. Don't forget the 15' of 3/16 stainless chain (yes, it works better than galvanized). Also, get at least 200' of 3/8 nylon rope. I can help you back splice the ends.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by kmoose

. . . Don't forget the 15' of 3/16 stainless chain (yes, it works better than galvanized). Also, get at least 200' of 3/8 nylon rope. . .

Michael - a large oval deck pipe and a roller bracket is by far the simplest anchor setup on a Seafari and very easy to use. (See attached pic; I've since rotated that cleat 90 degrees because it was too close to the deck pipe!) You can even raise and lower the anchor just standing up in the hatch w/o getting on deck if it's really rough! BTW, I use 20' of chain and 300' of line that allows me to anchor in ~60' w/5:1 scope. There is plenty of room in anchor locker for that much line, and there is another advantage for having that much line. For Gulf Stream crossings on our Bahama trips, we always ran our anchor lines down thru a shackle or carabiner hook attached to towing eye and then back up to the deck with a big snap hook attached to end of anchor line, so it could be quickly be deployed as a tow line, with the towing load applied to a very strong fitting instead of a deck cleat. (Murphy sez that when you break down, it'll be in the middle of a thunderstorm with the rain coming down sideways and 10' visibility, so you want to be able to hook up quick!) Each boat in our flotilla was also equipped with two 20' lines attached to transom towing eyes with a spliced thimble and snap hook and an eye splice in the other end, with the lines just coiled up and hanging on the stern cleats. When you put the two eyes together you have a bridle attached to the strongest part of your boat, so the "towee" can just put the anchor line snap hook thru the two eyes for a quick hook up. While using the small 3/8 nylon line is good because it stretches a lot, having 300' of it for a tow line is even better, because if towing offshore in big seas, it's real easy for the "tow-er" and "tow-ee" to get out of phase on waves, causing sudden shock loads on towline. Snapped towlines are a common problem, so the longer they are the better. A 300' nylon line becomes a pretty elastic "rubber band" that's less likely to snap under those conditions.

Although the roller bracket/deck pipe setup is so easy to use that I've always been able to drop the anchor quickly when by myself, there is another "lazy man's" anchor set up that Moose is probably referring to that you can use if you're by yourself and too lazy to go up to the front deck . . . just rig up a line from your bow cleat to a snatch block or snap shackle on a 20' line attached to the bow cleat and secured to a midship cleat but hanging over the gunnel into the cockpit. You can keep your line and anchor in a bucket or bin in the cockpit. When you get ready to anchor, just toss the anchor overboard, run the line through the snatch block or snap shackle, and then let out the line connected to snatch block and make bitter end fast to your midship cleat. This way the anchor load will be taken by the bow cleat so boat will head into the wind/waves. You can also do the same thing with an anchor bouy attached to anchor line with a snap shackle. Then when you're ready to haul in the anchor, just pull in the snatch block (or buoy) so the anchor comes up next to the cockpit. That way you can avoid going on deck in rough seas. The buoy has another advantage in that you can use it to help pull the anchor if it gets stuck under a ledge, etc. The only drawback to this method that I can see is that it will be a pain if you have a lot of chain to deal with, whereas the chain is actually easier to handle than rope with the deck pipe/roller bracket setup. Plus if the seas are really big, I'd rather be hauling the anchor up from the bow with it punching into oncoming waves rather than taking the waves on the beam! Denny