Welcome aboard Scott! It's good that you used the boat for a while before doing a restore, as now you'll have a better idea of what you want. You may have a fair amount of extra weight in that wet transom. You might want to replace the wood with Coosa to take even more weight out of it. If you're planning on adding a bracket check out my post on the pro's & cons of them on a 20. You may want to plan on moving the fuel tank and console forward a bit to move CG forward. You can use Capt. Terry's calculation to get your CG about where it was originally designed to be with a 300 lb motor! I like the Hermco bracket because of the big flotation tank and all glass construction, but it's design won't let you mount a 25" motor high enough to get AV plate out of water at cruise, so you'll need a jack plate or aluminum bracket to get the AV plate about 6" above keel if you go with a 30" setback. If you're not a diver, you might want to go with a 24" setback version, as motor will still clear the transom when fully tilted but you won't have to mount motor quite as high. And plan on adding trim tabs, a 4B prop and a fin to the AV plate for extra stern lift. That should get min planing speed down to ~12 mph and allow you to run comfortably thru a 2-3' chop while sitting down!
If dealer hasn't already done so, I'd have them run the BRP fuel system test where they install some clear fuel hose with a vacuum gage T'd into the fuel line between boat and engine. Intent is to check for air leaks and insure fuel system restriction is no higher than 4"Hg and avoid overheated/scuffed pistons due to motor running too lean. Test is conducted w/o running motor - they just run a hose from HP fuel pump outlet into fuel fill port and then use the laptop to run HP pump at max flow while checking for air bubbles and vacuum reading.
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08-08-2017, 12:43 AM
Hybrid Mode
