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#1
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Lots of rot practically falling off the stern as I cut the fiberglass back ..lots of work ahead of me
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#2
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I just started my restoration on my 20' MA, my transom was like a sponge. took the cap off and cut some deck up and started ripping her out, i did leave the outer skin to reglue to. ill post some pics once i figure out how to lol. And i do plan on using coosa for transom and a new deck.
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#3
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I noticed you asked about coosa board. Here's my take
Good: strong, water impervious to a point, lighter than ply wood....... Bad: expensive, hard to cut ( will dull blades fast )....... Probably much more to be said but that's it in a nut shell. Ed |
#4
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Penski Board is an option. I did my 20's transom from the outside with it (2006) and it has been fine so far. Don't know what materials cost now, but the Penski Board was not cheap.
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#5
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I used Coosa for several reasons:
Light weight (26lbs/ft3) strong with very high compression strength won't rot won't absorb ANY water cuts and sands easily (almost too easily) Like everything else, it has a few negatives: is not great at holding screws without a bedding of some sort (through bolting is fine though) low/no residual strength if it ever fails (ruptures rather than plastic/elastic failure) dust from cutting is extremely itchy and dulls blades fast - just like FG need to make sure that it is fully wrapped in layup since exposed edges can be failure source since it is so friable (the front and back surfaces have glass embedded about 1/16" deep) oh yeah - I got it cheap due to a mis-quote ![]() |
#6
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__________________
Zachary [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#7
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Thanks guys for the input I’m looking at a full stern rebuild and only want to do it once ... any thoughts on a full stern with brAcket vs the traditional motor well design I like the security of the solid stern and understanding there is a cg issue but I’m most likely gonna repoower so I can make the needed adjustments when i rebuild ... just not sure the best way to go
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#8
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