What helm steering systems are you running? (20' Seafari)

[JUST JOHN]

I don't see a length marking on my cable anywhere, but I measured a bunch of times and come up with 14'. Sound correct?

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by JUST JOHN

I don't see a length marking on my cable anywhere, but I measured a bunch of times and come up with 14'. Sound correct?

See the following, my installed cable is 15', during one of my replacements I may have added a foot because it was tight getting around the starboard corner. You need to know how they are defining how to measure the length'

I converted to the Teleflex non-feedback steering a number of years ago on my '76 20’ Seafari with a Merc 150 HP V-6. A few years later switched to a ETEC 150HO. I liked the NFB because I didn.t have to fight the steering torque and the boat would still go straight if I temporarily let go of the wheel. I did have a helm failure a last year in a rather gentle turn just a little faster than plane speed; glad it didn’t happen to my wife when I was at footing or slalom speeds! At that time I briefly considered going hydraulic, but with guests coming, wanted to get back in operation quickly with P/Ns that I knew would work. The hydraulic systems I have driven seem too much like power steering. Here is what my Marine Parts Source invoice shows for Seastar:

TF-SSC6215 (15 foot), Safe-T OC Steering Cable $86
TF-SH4910P Helm Only NFB4 $109

Removal and installation of the cable went a little smoother last time. I think what I did for removal was extract the entire cable aft through the hole just in front of the transom so I wasn’t trying to pull the aft, metallic end around the corner and through the hole in the strbd panel under the gunnel. Then I reversed the process for installation. About 35 years ago I replaced the original gunnel bolsters with 3/8” teak I was able to leave the teak in place for the steering cable removal/install.

Best wishes

[JUST JOHN]

Thank you for your detailed feedback Capt Terry!

You need to know how they are defining how to measure the length'

Yes, this is something I though of while measuring. Good point, I'll call him back before ordering.
EDIT: found the below pic.

I liked the NFB because I didn.t have to fight the steering torque and the boat would still go straight if I temporarily let go of the wheel.'

This is something I'm really looking forward to. The boat has been this way for so long that it was just "the norm" to muscle the wheel. I'm exciting to think it will be a smoother operation, more of a pleasure to drive, and handle better as a result.

I could see, depending on your routing how that startboard corner could easily add an extra foot to keep it out of the way. Mine has a gentle curve there, over my oil tank :/ ...

I believe I'll remove/install just as you describe. The SeaStar rep said to tie a line to the end of the old cable before removing so you could then tie it to the new cable to pull through for assembly. I think this will just complicate things, as installation seems pretty open and easy. On a related note, there is quite a bit of slack in the existing cable along the gunnel.

Thanks again!

[Capt Terry]

My original cable had the rack helm. My next helm and the NFB helm are rotary. Mine runs through the engine tilt tube where it is secured to the tube with a nut. So follow the appropriate measurement instructions.
In a completely confined area using a rope is good. Instead of a rope, I probably used one of my common methods, attaching about a 4’ long, white jacketed 14 gauge 3 wire piece to the steering cable to help snake it through the hole under the gunnel. You can put some prebend in it, push on it, whereas you can’t push on a rope!

[JUST JOHN]

Originally Posted by Capt Terry

My original cable had the rack helm. My next helm and the NFB helm are rotary.

Did the extra foot you mentioned adding to the cable length coincided with the move from rack to rotary?

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by JUST JOHN

Did the extra foot you mentioned adding to the cable length coincided with the move from rack to rotary?

Can’t remember, may have been 15 years ago. Am sure I ordered the 15’ the last time to duplicate what I had removed. PM me your email and I will send some pics of the aft strbrd corner.

[JUST JOHN]

Looking for advise here...

So in removing my old failed steering system, I hit a big problem. The steering cable rod nut won’t clear the hole drilled in the transom splashwell, and the rod hits before it can be removed. It’s only significant possible movement is axial because the other end hasn’t yet cleared the corresponding male bore in the engine tilt tube. In getting the old cable off, I sliced the nut clam-shell-style, but obviously I’ll experience the same clearance issue (in reverse) installing the new cable...

In the instructions it has the following disclaimer: "if necessary, remove the engine from the boat". I think either the engine needs to be loosened for clearance, or I need to dremel the thru hole larger, which I’m not thrilled about, at all. I haven’t tried installing the new cable yet as I ran out of daylight and patience, but fingers crossed for a miracle.

Also, any tricks for clearing out the old grease from the tilt tube bore that the cable cylinder rod rides in? I’m thinking like a rod used to clean a trombone slide, which I have, but that will be too long also... or rod brush and degreaser.