Aluminum trailer/leaf spring wear

[Capt Terry]

In Fla trips to the ramps were short, but the last 20 years in SC the trips are 90 RT. I thought the clearance between my trailer tires and fenders was less than it used to be on my 40 year old tandem axle Hitchhiker trailer. The leaf springs were replaced just before leaving Fla and they were only dunked in salt water once when the Seafari was loaded for the move north. Therefore the springs themselves look great. The springs are captured in a c-channel (inverted like the letter “n”). I noticed where the aft end (camel hump end) of the leaf springs contacts the aluminum it was worn perhaps .25”. I think my solution will be to insert some bolted in, aluminum spacers between the hump and the c-channel to restore it to near the original position. So the point of this message is to see if:
1- Anyone had developed a better solution for this issue
2- Alert others using steel springs in contact with aluminum trailers about potential wear

[uncleboo]

I think bolting the aluminum strips in would be fine. cut an extra set for when they wear through again.

[DonV]

Can you mount something like this which is made for leaf springs?

https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Bo...gs_p_1413.html

Oh yeah, my brother had the same issue with his Hitchiker. If I remember he had the holes welded shut and backed with a plate and re-drilled. Not positive of the whole procedure, but the holes in the aluminum holding the springs were really, really sloppy.

[Capt Terry]

Thx Don. This appears to be for springs with bolts at both ends. Mine only has a thru bolt at fwd end. The bolt at the aft end just keeps the spring from falling down out of the c-channel after a terrific bump. I don’t think the holes are sloppy or worn. But will look more closely after your advice.
Thanks. BTW still love the Hitchhiker after 24 years in salt water and 20 in fresh. Original axles and frame. Replaced other things as necessary.

[DonV]

This kind?

https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/24...ity_p_306.html

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by DonV

This kind?

https://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/24...ity_p_306.html

Yes sir. The upward bend on the aft end must translate fore and aft a bit as the leaf spring flexes which if even a small amount results in rubbing contact. Over time even the anodized aluminum loses out to the steel spring- My theory anyway. In jet engine hardware I have seen wear even if the translation movement almost seemed microscopic.

[bumpdraft]

Just a thought, We flipped the beams on my trailer and re drilled everything on the opposite side on "fresh" aluminum.

[Capt Terry]

Thanks Ron for the suggestion. Will have to study this. Trailer is stored a few miles away, can’t just open the door and take a look.

[flyingfrizzle]

Any trailer Ive had with that type of leaf spring I changed them out to the dual eye type and got rid of the slide. One trailer I was able to just bolt shackles to the bolt keeper bracket that keeps them from falling out and then bolt the new rear eye to the shackle. The second trailer I had to weld spring perches to the rear of the frame to mount the shackles/leaf eye. I would think you should be able to add in a ware plate fairly easy though. We have some hdpe plastic here at work that we use for ware pads against metal contact.

[Capt Terry]

Thx guys for your comments & suggestions about the leaf spring wearing my aluminum Hitchiker. Will take a closer look this winter with the boat off the trailer.
1- DonV mentioned worn, oversized bolt holes. Based on msmts the original hole .060” diametral clearance is only about .100” now; so not a lot of wear there.
2- Bumpdraft’s idea of switching parts from side-to-side might work if need be.
3- For starters will try .25” thick aluminum or HDPE spacer plates to compensate for the wear.
Thx again for all comments