Rebuild of '75, 23' center console begins

[take a potter]

Strick, interesting, when I looked at the thread they were all right side up. What were you seeing and if you have advice for what to do next time so I don't waste your time again?

[strick]

Hopefully they are still right side up? the photos on my desk top computer were sideways....hopefully I did not screw up your pictures...if you are looking at the thred from a phone and up loading from a phone things may appear load different... not a waste of time as I like helping but not screwing things up lol

strick

[uncleboo]

I'm no expert, but, I think the gyro in the phone changes what is 'right side up' according to the angle of the phone.

[take a potter]

I will post some pictures in the next couple of days. So far I ground a 4" wide bevel on the outside of the motor notch and filled it in with 4 layers of 1708. I also added a layer of 1208 and 3 layers of 1700 along with 8" and 12" 1708 tabbing on the inside of the transom. I have the core cut and will be laminating it tomorrow.

So a couple of questions, I fought much to hard trying to get bubbles out where the 12" 1708 tape passes/drops off, the 8" 1708 tape. I have various bubble rollers including one that is football shaped, seemed that nothing that I did would get rid of the separation right where the tapes cross. if I work it to much then the tape would pull away from the corner where I laid a pretty sizable 3/4" to 1" cove filet. Anyone got a trick? Would love to learn something before I tab in the core.

On another subject, the boat is now water tight, in that the transom drain has been glassed over. My intention is to use Capt Chuck as a role model and put a garboard drain, with an extended handle straight down thru the bottom. Before I drill the hole, would love opinions on how the keel stringer is handled when adding a bracket? I was thinking of not running it back to the transom, but instead creating 2 taller stringers/knees on either side of the centerline, about 10"-12" apart. If I did that, then it would seem that the drain could go dead center about 10" in front of the transom. Sure would be nice to hose all the fiberglass dust off of the interior every once in a while. Thoughts/Suggestions?

Thanks,

Michael

[uncleboo]

On my 18, I cut the keel member 4" from the front of the transom, glassed the end and cut a piece of the 1-1/2" baltek and glassed it at an angle from the keel member to the transom. drain is in the center.

http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1604922942

Don't have a picture of the brace in place.

[take a potter]

All right time for a photo update.

Transom is in
Added (1) 1208 and (3) 1700 to inside skin along with 8 & 12" 1708 tabbing.
Laminated 2 pieces of 3/4" marine ply and one 1/2" marine ply. Let it cure after applying neat epoxy to all inside faces and troweling on a cabisol, cotton flocking mixture with a 1/4" notch trowel. Squeezed it together with a 300 lb steel plate and screws and a coupe bags of concrete mix. When I cut the top curve the laminate looked solid with no gaps. I then a coated the back and sides of the core with neat epoxy and troweled on the cabosiol mix on the inside skin and back of the core. Pulled it all together with some long 24 and 30" clamps that I welded up along with a handful of 2x6x18" blocks inside and out, thru bolted with 1/2" rod.

Pulled fillets on the inside and added 8 &12" 1708 tabbing. Then laminated it with (1) 1208 and (4) 1700; wrapping 3 layers over the top and down the back staggered to 5".

[strick]

What are you referring to as the clamping board? Are you planning on mounting the bracket flush with the bottom of the boat? Are you planning on adding stringers to the bracket? What did you core the bracket with?

Strick

[take a potter]

Clamping board is the transom of the bracket. The bracket will sit 3" above the keel of the boat. I was planning on the top of the clamping board to be right at 34" off the keel of the boat. I do plan on adding stringers, I was planning on two, full height and about 3.5" wide, built on a foam core. The only part of the bracket tub that is cored is the clamping board. It is two pieces of 3/4" and one piece of 1/2" marine ply hot coated with neat epoxy and then laminated with epoxy, cabisol, cotton flocking mix spread with a 3/16 notched trowel and pulled together with lots of screws, later removed. The rest of the tub is about 3/8 thick mainly 1700 thicker at the corners. The front face is thinner except the perimeter 5-6" where the bolts will go thru. That is about 7/16"

[strick]

Ok got it...been a while since i built a bracket...just trying to get a handle on all the new terminology lol..sounds like you are on the right track...I’m sure it will come out ok...things to consider...putting the stringers in prior to removing it from the mold..using composite such as core cell...very light weight and work great for the stringers. You are going to want to be able to glass the swim platform to the tub inside and out otherwise it will crack where the bonding putty is and leak...

Strick

[take a potter]

Marked the center line of the boat transom and the bracket. Used a squeegee with a small hole drilled in it to mark a repeatable spot on the chine corners. Drilled a small hole and then using a stick with a pencil and screw inserted, struck arcs. Connected the intersections to get the center line.








Got the bracket mounted with just 3 bolts. Wanted it in place to verify the height to trim the clamping board.



Got it trimmed, next step is to template the platform.