72 20’ SF Rebuild In RI

[uncleboo]

I don't have a pic of the knee, but, that's precisely what I did.
http://www.classicseacraft.com/commu...1&d=1623677646

[Capt Terry]

Originally Posted by Scottman

Put the first layer of 1708 on the transom, went on ok, not great. It is 10 times the size of anything I have done before, I am sure I will get better
2. Does anyone still use traditional steering system or do I need to use a hydraulic

I suppose hydraulic is most popular, but for now on my 20’ Seafari with 150 ETEC still happy with my Teleflex Non-feedback mechanical steering. Consider your egress hole from the bilge and alignment with the engine pivot tube. If your engine is too high for the cable to align it would drive you to hydraulic. I have only driven hydraulics a couple times but thought there was not enough resistance to suit me. Didn’t like PS on my Corvettes either!

[strick]

Nice and solid looking...I flipped them for ya

strick

[Rbphipper]

Hi Scott, are you opening stringers, digging out foam, refoam then raise? Or are you going over OEM? Also, did you remove thru hull scupper yet? I'm at both these steps and following your progress. I left liner in and figuring out side scuppers?

[SailorChlud]

I really would go with hydraulic at this point - probably for 2 reasons: when idling along, the boat will stay turned or straight as you left it so you can fiddle with something momentarily, and I think resale values are better.

[FishStretcher]

Wow. That rebuild looks very nice! Did you use Coosa 20 or 26?

[Scottman]

I used Coosa 20, because I did not realize there was a 26 when I bought it. I had to rent a truck and drive to Maine to pick it up. Not sure if I would use the 26 if I had to do it over again. When you hit the 20 with a hammer it surely does not dent very easily.

I have started doing core replacement on the under deck storage boxes and the bottom of the cap. I am using 1/2 Scored Divinycell. I decided to leave the original balsa coring, at the bow, as I am a little worried about losing the shape of the crown in the deck. It looks like it will be after thanksgiving before I get the cap and bow liner back in the hull.

Still making it up as I go along.

[steel686]

I think you are on the right track with the core at the bow. I left the first 4 feet of my liner in because i was worried about losing control of the flare. I ended up having an issue blending at the cut line after coring the liner. I wouldn't have had that obviously if I had taken the liner out in one piece. What I did come across was a lot of wet balsa from neglected fastener holes. I cut the top skin out and dug out everything I could reach. I packed the voids with as much thickened epoxy as I could trowel in then worked pre-fitted and wetted out Divinycell in as far as I could get. Not perfect but feels pretty solid. Spent alot of time tuning the crown with a longboard. Maybe you could make a radius jig for the top before you dig out the core.

[steel686]

Sorry. Just read that again and it sounds like you don’t need to remove it if it’s solid. Looks great by the way. Worth all the effort in the end.

[fishstu]

Very impressive rebuild - You will be very happy with the boat - all the effort will be worth it. I have yet to ride on a 20 footer that has the SC "sweet spot" hull characteristic of ride softness and drift stability.