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#1
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Coosa. Is really strong and much much lighter than wood.
I’ll never put wood in structurally again. Now teak is another story. Never enough of that. ![]() Might I just add really nice job rebuilding it and documenting it. Thats well done. |
#2
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From what I read, Coosa and Baltek are closed cell, so the only retention of water would be at a cut, where the cells have been compromised.
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1975 SF18/ 2002 DF140 1972 15' MonArk/ 1972 Merc 50 http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...photos/SC3.jpg |
#3
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Work schedule got messed up so came home for a couple days before I have to leave again. Did a lot of sanding on the inner hull sides in preparation for the divinycell however I first started closing in the holes from the forward vents and all other hull penetrations so I have a blank slate to start with.
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#4
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Also helped my brother fix the deathtrap that was the rear storage boxes on his '72 22 Mako. The inside lip that the hatch lid sat on was so broken and we have had people fall in the box countless times. So we put a new inside lip using cut off scraps of coosa from my build as well as filling some old screw holes and some minor glass work on the side of the cap. This boat will most likely be going completely under the knife after we finish mine so just putting band aids on bullet holes for now.
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