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#11
09-13-2021, 10:30 PM
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Shearline after the shaping but before the blocking 
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#12
09-13-2021, 10:31 PM
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I cut the transom to the original crown but it seemed a little too aggressive like she was a Blackwell. I ended up taking out another inch of crown
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#13
09-13-2021, 10:32 PM
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The sole was glasses on the bottom and glassed to the hull sides as well as to cleats underneath. Then I began coring the hull sides with h80 1/2”.
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#14
09-13-2021, 10:32 PM
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So the sole is glassed to the hull sides and then the cored sides were glassed to the sole. Holy sh$t did she just get strong.
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#15
09-13-2021, 10:33 PM
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Easiest way to template “one off panels” it with door skin strips and a hot glue gun.
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#16
09-13-2021, 10:33 PM
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#17
09-13-2021, 10:34 PM
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#18
09-13-2021, 10:34 PM
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#19
09-13-2021, 10:35 PM
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PVC was bedded and glassed to the bottom of the hatch gutters. Now I can router as many drain holes in from the top that will allow the hatches that will be bone dry. The PVC will go to a hose that will go to a sump box in the aft bilge. All gutters and drains will be plumbed to this sump box so the bilges will stay bone dry. The sump box will also have a valve that will allow it to be used a a backup emergency bilge pump. Note, I hate building gutters and hatches to a happily paid Jim Wells to build them for me.
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#20
09-13-2021, 10:36 PM
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Quick wipe of fairing to make life easier once I build the gunnel caps
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