Helm Boxes to mount pedistal seats

[Bushwacker]

. . I wonder what the overall length of the seats was?

Gillie, I scaled the cross-section sketch in the brochure using the 6'5" headroom dimension to establish a scale factor and came up with about 4.7' for the length of the seats. Length of front deck from stem to base of windshield works out to be 5.4' using same scale factor. Both numbers seem to be about right based on my memory of the Unohu.

I've used those 6 gal tanks too, and they're good for keeping CG low but they take up a lot more deck space than plastic jugs. I have one 6 gal jug shaped like the old jerry cans that measures about 7.7"W x 13"L x 20" H; it's pretty handy when deck space is limited! The newer 5 gal jugs with top and side handles are also easy to use and a good compromise between CG height and floor space. Denny

[McGillicuddy]

Hey Denny, love your precision. I used the same measurement and figured 4-1/2 to 5 ft. My seating will be about 38 inches on port and about 28 on starboard. I measured the pointy end of the Seafari and the windshield starts about 7'4" from the stem. Lose a couple feet there. As it stands I'll have about 5' of deck behind port seat to transom and about 6' behind the helm. Guess I better find a more agile third angler so I can send him to the pointy end to fish

Roger on the Jerry cans - vertical set up would be favorable in alloted space but I had found these brand new on craigslist and hadn't really worked out the details yet. I did get some measurements and allowed space for some boxier 12 and 18gal. models should I find I want more range down the road.

[fdheld34]

Gill--I see that you are a cabinet maker..
Couple questions to pick your brain...
have you done any rough sketches/templates etc for the design of your seats..if so would you mind sharing. Thinking more and more about extra capacity for fuel too
Also..I am more comfortable working with wood as opposed to building a mold etc..I am also aware the wood needs protection like fiberglass resin and mat??? etc. What are your ideas???
Also, Denny....like you quality work and pics of your build of the galley seat...On a box of that style could I use plywood and laminate///router edges cut out holes for hatches???????

Just some outloud thinking
Thanks..any input appreciated,
Fred

[Bushwacker]

..On a box of that style could I use plywood and laminate///router edges cut out holes for hatches???????

Hi Fred -
I think you're asking about using router bits on the FG box? Yes, they should work fine, probably better than on the PVC which tends to melt if you use too slow a feed! On thing I would do is to add another layer or two of glass around any openings. The galley seat box appears to just be a chopper gun layup (no woven roving ) so it probably isn't that strong. I was visualizing a large person sitting on the seat while punching thru some big head seas with significant shock loads, so figured a little extra reinforcement inside all the edges wouldn't hurt either! Denny

[McGillicuddy]

Fred, yeah, I did draw up a rough working picture to keep me focused, I'll scan it Mon. and shoot you an e-mail or just post it. I'm using 1/2" Baltic birch for the sides and supports and mahogany to set in rod holders and drawers or trays. Joints are simple butt joints with some inset rabbet joints where the mahogany is used. I'm using epoxy and stainless screws to assemble it -- the epoxy will provide the strength. I'll soften the corners with a round-over bit. I may glass and tape them, but more than likely I'll brush or spray everything with epoxy. Then I'll sand and paint the Baltic birch white and get a clear gloss polyurethane for the mahogany probably coat the paint, too. I'm also going to try to make a cantilevered pull out seat that slides out over the cooler from under the port seat. We'll see if that works...

[fdheld34]

Gil sent you PM..
Dont you think there would be some type of market out there for affordable helm bases, simple design that would incorporate storage and tackle drawers. Googling helm boxes I came up with a company out of Australia (Boat Box)..but never got a return email...all the other bases/boxes are so expensive and intricate. Make a mold and go into production for AFFORDABLE boxes and make millions!!!!???? yeh right
Fred

[McGillicuddy]

Fred here's my sketch.


Stainless flatheads are countersunk, I'll probably fill them with Bondo just for the facility of removing them should I want to tweak the design down the road. I'll probably try to make some glass versions down the road. See how I like them.


If I stay with the plan the piece of wood you see laying on the cooler becomes a slideout seat with cantilever supports.

[fdheld34]

Gil-
Very nice, all this info truly appreciated. I will definately do something along the lines of your design. Again, I am more handy with wood, router, table saw etc etc.
so wood will be the most likely way I am going to approach my project, and like you said..can always use them as molds/fiberglass down the road..
Thanks again, Fred

[Bushwacker]

Nice job Gillie. You did a good thing by not bringing the box sides all the way out to edge of stepdown like my galley seat. I often find myself trying to step there and it's a pain. New cabin door looks nice also. I see you left a space at top of it - is that for a window or ventilation?

[McGillicuddy]

Hi Denny,
Thanks, That was the reason I didn't go two inches wider on the helm side to accommodate the twin gas cans -- that little step edge is a convenience you take for granted with pedestal seating. Hopefully I can wrap it up this week.

The space in the doorway is neither. The door is just leaning there right now. Some one had cut off 4 inches of the door or it's not original. Perhaps they had a low profile aux. tank, who knows? I wasn't going to sweat it cause mosquitoes aren't a problem here and it's not enough space for a punk hoodlum to squeeze through, unless he's a real pinhead ;eventually I'll either extend it at the bottom or consider a window at the top.