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#1
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
thanks for the compliments guys. I like the tower but for the kinda fishing i do it just doesnt work for me.(one man show) I do alot of tuna fishing in the fall and were i need to put a rod holder is right were the rear tower legs are. Codfeesh we will both stick out like soar thumbs this year.
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#2
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
That looks like the perfect boat!
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#3
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
Quote:
Bring the tower back to Florida!! I'll take-it.. See ya, Ken
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See ya, Ken © |
#4
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
i love that tower id love to have one someday for my scepter
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#5
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Re: 1976 23' hell on reels
just posted the tower in the for sale section. If anyone is interested in buying it please let me know. I dont have any room to store it so its gotta go.nobones if your really interested let me know we mite be able to work something out.
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#6
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well its that time of year again for another project. last week I got some motivation and started to work on the boat again. I'm going to replace the deck and re-core the cap this time around and spray the whole inside and cap with gel coat. I'm keeping the deck looking like factory minus the stripes and re-coring the hatches. so just out of curiosity when you guys replace your decks do you wrap all the edges of the plywood with glass before setting it down or do you seal them with epoxy or just leave them be? any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks Brian
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#7
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Brian, I can't answer your questions but please document your work well as I to am going to have to undertake the same project in a year or two and I am scared just thinking about it.
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1976 23' SeaCraft Inboard |
#8
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Quote:
penske board - do it once,never do it again - no problems with rotting ... gel coat - that's alot of work - prep,spraying,wet sanding and buffing...spray it with awlgrip - save yourself the amount of work...
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do not let common sense get in your way |
#9
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let me add this:
working with plywood: it's real important to seal the wood from any water migration - epoxy is the clear choice for this...and yes,you want to completley seal the edges of any and all plywood - it wicks moisture via the end grain...epoxy is a better choice for working with wood,due to the fact it's water proof - polyester resins are pourous,not the best choice for working with wood. the underside of the wood - you need to seal this as well... spraying with gel coat: gel coat requires a few steps - surface prep,spraying - 2 types of gel coat - "laminating gel" - this will not fully kick,unless sealed from the atmosphere with PVA.and there's "air dry gel" this has a wax in it that rises as the gel kicks - no need for PVA - the gel needs to be sprayed on to the needed thickness - gel shrinks...after the spraying,wet sanding and compounding is required... in the case of decks - the gel is rolled out... depending on what you want - a nice clean job,or a "utilitarian" job - that meaning,you're not really concerned with beauty - gel coat may or may not be your best choice... finish coating with awlgrip is gonna give you a nice clean finish,that lasts,awlgrip on the deck is clean and easy to keep that way.refinishing with paint,you need the prep,a good 2 part primer and then spray it - job over... rolling out the non skid areas... seriously - check out composites,before you start this job - composites are pretty easy to work with,light weight and strong as well...cost is less than you think - 1/2" penske board 4'x8',costs around $150...
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do not let common sense get in your way |
#10
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1/2" 4x8 is $240 at the closest retail place ( RI ).
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