1977 Seafari 2006 Etec 150

[Capt.Nate]

That baby looks nice!

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

. . . Worst part of first days with new ride is the tach is not accurate. Comfortable cruise, tach said 58 revs, and I knew this should be about top. Stayed away from it all day, finally running at 42, then 4, and at 38 she was JUST about to fall off plane!?! Thinking I had the wrong prop, I was disappointed all day. So with little traffic, I headed in the HB canal, and put her to the pins!!! Ran even better that the 99 175! Look down at tach and I'm spinning 72-7400 rpms! Yeah right. Never hit a rev limiter and she sounded perfect. She's quick!

Now I'm thinking of pulling every gauge and possibly mounting 94sv in this custom fabbed dash panel from PO. Pics to follow.

Vezo, Part II

Michael,
I believe the rev limiter on that motor is set at a little over 6000 rpm, so your tach is indeed way off. I wouldn't waste time screwing around with that analog tach! Even if you get it on the correct switch setting, analog tachs are notoriously inaccurate, so it could still be off by 200-300 rpm! That's too much to accurately select the right prop. I'd recommend getting a 3.5" I-Command gauge or if you're gonna buy a fancy NMEA compatible chart plotter, just hook it up to that. If you have the system check tach with the lights on it, you may already have the Engine interface cable that you'll need. Here's a link to the Installation Manual that will show you what's needed.

I believe you said that motor was actually a 2007 model? If model no. is DPXSUC, it's the same as mine, so the optimum rpm range is 5300-5500. Gillie's right, I think it's mounted too low, so need to correct that before considering a prop change. I'd raise it a couple holes and try to get a pic of the AV plate when you're up on plane. Plate should be above solid water when at cruise. Put some black electrical tape on top of AV plate because that white plate is hard to see if it's under white water! (See second pic below) I've since raised it another 1/2 inch since 3rd picture was taken. I've picked up at least 100 rpm and 1-2 mph since I raised motor almost 3 inches from where I had been running it for years. That's enough that I can now turn a SS 4B 14.5 x 15P BRP Cyclone prop up to 5400-5450 rpm. It evidently has more cup than the larger 4B SS 15x15 PowerTech prop I've been running for a couple years because the "smaller" Cyclone turns about 100 rpm slower at WOT, but gives 1-2 mph more speed! It's a very efficient prop with good stern lift, and cruise MPG is over 4.0, at least 0.25 mpg better than the PT prop at the same mph.

[Vezo, Part II]

Thank you Denny, how are you? I think I'm going to spend the $225 on a Bobs Machine 5 in 1 manual jack plate rather than playing the one hole at a time game. Respectable run yesterday between showers and tach worked flawlessly trimmed and minimal tabs she stuck at 5800, as I remember from original sea trial. Boat freaking flies. Though probably a little heavier than the MA, she seems much more aerodynamic and feels faster.?.

I am having trouble learning most efficient way to get her on plane. I'm not a fan of dole fin additions, but could see a four blade lifting eventually. Mine is stamped 6/06 and mine seems to steer much further than your engine/steering you addressed with yours. Can't understand that one at all.

Prop is a SS Viper with no stamped measurement, unless inside and I cannot see it while at the dock.

As you said, for $300 or so I may like to mount the I-Command gauge in addition to the 94sv because I liked the information constantly available. If Ken says its duplication, then I'll skip it. Not sure if he monitors as closely, or if it's only a button away. Anywho, thanks for your input Denny. Always nice to hear from you.

Michael.

[Vezo, Part II]

Thanks Captain Nate, she came from your neck of the woods. Previous owner lived in Seminole but boat was High and Dry behind the old original SeaCraft dealer was. She was refitted by Yacht Doctors?, also in St. Pete?

Denny, my model number is E150DSLSUF, whatever that means. I don't like not being familiar with my engine. Thanks for the installation link.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

. . . I think I'm going to spend the $225 on a Bobs Machine 5 in 1 manual jack plate rather than playing the one hole at a time game. Respectable run yesterday between showers and tach worked flawlessly trimmed and minimal tabs she stuck at 5800, as I remember from original sea trial. Boat freaking flies. Though probably a little heavier than the MA, she seems much more aerodynamic and feels faster.?.

I am having trouble learning most efficient way to get her on plane. I'm not a fan of dole fin additions, but could see a four blade lifting eventually. Mine is stamped 6/06 and mine seems to steer much further than your engine/steering you addressed with yours. Can't understand that one at all.

Prop is a SS Viper with no stamped measurement, unless inside and I cannot see it while at the dock.

As you said, for $300 or so I may like to mount the I-Command gauge in addition to the 94sv because I liked the information constantly available. If Ken says its duplication, then I'll skip it. Not sure if he monitors as closely, or if it's only a button away. . .

Michael, I added a jack plate because it was the only way to get my motor high enough (AV plate is 6.0" above keel!) without a major change to the bracket, but in your case it's a waste of money IMHO. Increasing the setback on a heavy motor on the 20' hull is bad idea because it will make the boat tend to porpoise, make it harder to plane, tend to hurt the ride, and installing a jack plate is a lot more work than just raising the motor a couple of holes, especially if you have a trailer with a tongue jack on it! Just ask Capt. Terry what hole the 20" E-TEC is mounted in on his '76 Seafari - no trial and error process required! To raise motor, just lower tongue jack, put a block of wood under skeg, loosen lower mount bolts, pull top bolts, then crank up tongue jack till top bolts align with desired mount hole, and then reseal and reinstall bolts.

The Seafari will feel different from a MA, not only because it's a bit heavier with most of the extra weight further forward, but also because the hull is noticeably stiffer in bending and torsion. The cabin top and bulkhead tie the two hull sides together, plus the tall coaming on the sides stiffens it in the fore and aft direction. Sandy has said several times that in a rough chop, my boat has a more solid feel to it than his SF model.

The Viper prop is BRP's bow-lifting high speed prop, good for bass boats, but probably not what you want if running offshore in rough seas where you want to be able to hang on plane at low speed for the most comfortable ride, which requires a stern lifting prop. If the 5800 WOT rpm is accurate, you're underpropped, since the optimum is 5300-5500 for a 2007 motor. My guess is that it's a 14.75 X 17P Viper, P/N 176626 or 763914 (2-piece TBX hub). Should be able to see PN inside the aft hub, just above the nut. Next time you're out, try trimming motor all the way down and see how slow you can run and still hang on plane. A 4B Cyclone, probably a 14.5x15P, will hang on plane at lower speed, have a much stronger hole shot and better mpg than the Viper, although it might cost you a couple mph in top speed.

Since I'm a performance oriented guy, I like being able to monitor a bunch of engine stuff all the time, and I don't think I'd like having to keep pushing buttons to switch a chart plotter back and forth between engine info and chart or depth sounder. My 2 large and 2 small I-Command gauges are programmed allow me to continually monitor rpm, water temp, % throttle, mpg, trim position, fuel level, fuel burned and range on remaining fuel.

The model code translates as follows: D=E-TEC, S=Saltwater Edition, L=20" Shaft (X=25"), SU=2007, F=Model Run or suffix. My S/N is 05147575, so probably earlier than yours and it's a 25" shaft instead of 20", so about 15 lbs heavier than yours. Denny

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

Michael, I added a jack plate because it was the only way to get my motor high enough (AV plate is 6.0" above keel!) without a major change to the bracket, but in your case it's a waste of money IMHO. Increasing the setback on a heavy motor on the 20' hull is bad idea because it will make the boat tend to porpoise, make it harder to plane, tend to hurt the ride, and installing a jack plate is a lot more work than just raising the motor a couple of holes, especially if you have a trailer with a tongue jack on it! Just ask Capt. Terry what hole the 20" E-TEC is mounted in on his '76 Seafari - no trial and error process required! To raise motor, just lower tongue jack, put a block of wood under skeg, loosen lower mount bolts, pull top bolts, then crank up tongue jack till top bolts align with desired mount hole, and then reseal and reinstall bolts.

The Seafari will feel different from a MA, not only because it's a bit heavier with most of the extra weight further forward, but also because the hull is noticeably stiffer in bending and torsion. The cabin top and bulkhead tie the two hull sides together, plus the tall coaming on the sides stiffens it in the fore and aft direction. Sandy has said several times that in a rough chop, my boat has a more solid feel to it than his SF model.

The Viper prop is BRP's bow-lifting high speed prop, good for bass boats, but probably not what you want if running offshore in rough seas where you want to be able to hang on plane at low speed for the most comfortable ride, which requires a stern lifting prop. If the 5800 WOT rpm is accurate, you're underpropped, since the optimum is 5300-5500 for a 2007 motor. My guess is that it's a 14.75 X 17P Viper, P/N 176626 or 763914 (2-piece TBX hub). Should be able to see PN inside the aft hub, just above the nut. Next time you're out, try trimming motor all the way down and see how slow you can run and still hang on plane. A 4B Cyclone, probably a 14.5x15P, will hang on plane at lower speed, have a much stronger hole shot and better mpg than the Viper, although it might cost you a couple mph in top speed.

Since I'm a performance oriented guy, I like being able to monitor a bunch of engine stuff all the time, and I don't think I'd like having to keep pushing buttons to switch a chart plotter back and forth between engine info and chart or depth sounder. My 2 large and 2 small I-Command gauges are programmed allow me to continually monitor rpm, water temp, % throttle, mpg, trim position, fuel level, fuel burned and range on remaining fuel.

The model code translates as follows: D=E-TEC, S=Saltwater Edition, L=20" Shaft (X=25"), SU=2007, F=Model Run or suffix. My S/N is 05147575, so probably earlier than yours and it's a 25" shaft instead of 20", so about 15 lbs heavier than yours. Denny

The Seafari has more beef in many places than the SF. The MA as well with that big box cap.

I can not scream loudly enough how much prop design can affect your smile.
I had a pos house mouse eared Mich Match on Wide OPen when I got her.
She went to the sky on hole shot and porpoised a bit.
Felt like some cruel joke conjured on the island of misfit toys.

When I tried a Mirage +, I thought this cant be happening.
It was that dramatic.
My ass lifted, and she just screwed.

As freaks, we are constantly chasing props.

If you are trimmed in and still losing the horizon on lift off,
you have a bow lifter.

I like getting some speed easily on take off and then come up.
Be nice to your wrist pins please

It`s a SeaCraft, not a Paramount, no need to carry the bow.

[Vezo, Part II]

Well after hours of watching, more Chic Ultras, and the skeg slowly lowering, I decided to try the manual bilge switch, which was hard wired, and did not require the ignition. I cannot explain this exactly, but I found a significant leak at the elevation of deck and live well. Decided to pull the boat, check tide. Yup 20 minutes to low. Jackass Jockey Game Time.

Got the hull cradled and started winching up to bow eye, with second axle hanging over the end of ramp and she is full. Slowly wait and use the tide to get her up.

There is a bronze thru hull fitting for filling bait well. Found that in line valve OPEN, assuming from sea trial. Once closed, manual bilge began pumping out properly. Now the float switch did not appear to be functioning. But she eventually pumped herself dry and once on the trailer I pulled her above high tide line and removed the Garboard plug. Not sure how much rain we received overnight, but I know what I would have found this morning. She was sinking and I was friggin watching!!!

Hey Magillicutty, the dock is nice, but not exactly the reason I stole this foreclosed HUD home, haha.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

. . . I cannot explain this exactly, but I found a significant leak at the elevation of deck and live well. . . .

There is a bronze thru hull fitting for filling bait well. Found that in line valve OPEN, assuming from sea trial. Once closed, manual bilge began pumping out properly. Now the float switch did not appear to be functioning. But she eventually pumped herself dry and once on the trailer I pulled her above high tide line and removed the Garboard plug. Not sure how much rain we received overnight, but I know what I would have found this morning. She was sinking and I was friggin watching!!! . . .

Michael,

A reliable automatic bilge pump is an absolute must-have on any boat you leave in the water overnight, but I'm sure you've learned that by now! Post some pics of your bait well set up. My bait well under the port stern seat holds about 15 gallons when full, so it significantly affects height of scuppers above waterline! A bronze thru-hull was not part of the OEM design in my boat, so you may have some sort of aftermarket rig. I've never seen one of the original Moesly pump-less circulating live well's in a later model Seafari, but maybe they were an option. I'd also check the condition of the brass vertical scupper tubes; look for deterioration of the flare where they come thru the bottom. Before I replaced mine, my big 2000 gph auto bilge pump would come on about every 15 minutes and pump out about 5 gallons!

Also post some pics of the steering cylinder setup on your motor. You've got me interested in seeing what's different about yours. I installed one of the older longer stroke slider-type cylinders but I only measured about 4% more motor rotation because it mounts further out on tiller bar. Denny

[McGillicuddy]

Sheesus, Part II you're killing me - your own ramp too? and drive thru storage? I gotta get out of So. Cal... Is that at Hernando Bch?

The guys made a good point about how to gain a hole-shot. Swap the prop.
In the BRP world, the Rebel or the Cyclone will serve you better in every way except top speed. As Denny and Sandy noted, the Viper is a bow lifter. SeaCraft wants its tail lifted - the hull does the rest.

[Vezo, Part II]

Shit, is the Viper seriously a bow lifter? No wonder it's requiring some tab no matter of engine trim.

Discovered a non- contacting service in the Perko battery selector. Go straight to Both then back to One!

Discovered raw water pick-up sea-cock was also open, as well as the plastic T inline valve. Yesterday's rain seems to have had no effect on skeg lowering. At rest, I think she slowly took water on up to the base of the on deck live well. Then began leaking into bilge. She would have kept this up until she was on the bottom this morning.

Filled boat with freshwater waiting for float to activate, when I found number one batt not connecting, flipped to both and bilge activated. Now I have no reason to believe float is hard wired. Is this even possible???
Thank God I bailed on the Bimini trip a while back!!!
Hey Gillie, still some deals out here in HB!.!