1977 Seafari 2006 Etec 150

[Vezo, Part II]

Thank you Denny, how are you? I think I'm going to spend the $225 on a Bobs Machine 5 in 1 manual jack plate rather than playing the one hole at a time game. Respectable run yesterday between showers and tach worked flawlessly trimmed and minimal tabs she stuck at 5800, as I remember from original sea trial. Boat freaking flies. Though probably a little heavier than the MA, she seems much more aerodynamic and feels faster.?.

I am having trouble learning most efficient way to get her on plane. I'm not a fan of dole fin additions, but could see a four blade lifting eventually. Mine is stamped 6/06 and mine seems to steer much further than your engine/steering you addressed with yours. Can't understand that one at all.

Prop is a SS Viper with no stamped measurement, unless inside and I cannot see it while at the dock.

As you said, for $300 or so I may like to mount the I-Command gauge in addition to the 94sv because I liked the information constantly available. If Ken says its duplication, then I'll skip it. Not sure if he monitors as closely, or if it's only a button away. Anywho, thanks for your input Denny. Always nice to hear from you.

Michael.

[Vezo, Part II]

Thanks Captain Nate, she came from your neck of the woods. Previous owner lived in Seminole but boat was High and Dry behind the old original SeaCraft dealer was. She was refitted by Yacht Doctors?, also in St. Pete?

Denny, my model number is E150DSLSUF, whatever that means. I don't like not being familiar with my engine. Thanks for the installation link.

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

. . . I think I'm going to spend the $225 on a Bobs Machine 5 in 1 manual jack plate rather than playing the one hole at a time game. Respectable run yesterday between showers and tach worked flawlessly trimmed and minimal tabs she stuck at 5800, as I remember from original sea trial. Boat freaking flies. Though probably a little heavier than the MA, she seems much more aerodynamic and feels faster.?.

I am having trouble learning most efficient way to get her on plane. I'm not a fan of dole fin additions, but could see a four blade lifting eventually. Mine is stamped 6/06 and mine seems to steer much further than your engine/steering you addressed with yours. Can't understand that one at all.

Prop is a SS Viper with no stamped measurement, unless inside and I cannot see it while at the dock.

As you said, for $300 or so I may like to mount the I-Command gauge in addition to the 94sv because I liked the information constantly available. If Ken says its duplication, then I'll skip it. Not sure if he monitors as closely, or if it's only a button away. . .

Michael, I added a jack plate because it was the only way to get my motor high enough (AV plate is 6.0" above keel!) without a major change to the bracket, but in your case it's a waste of money IMHO. Increasing the setback on a heavy motor on the 20' hull is bad idea because it will make the boat tend to porpoise, make it harder to plane, tend to hurt the ride, and installing a jack plate is a lot more work than just raising the motor a couple of holes, especially if you have a trailer with a tongue jack on it! Just ask Capt. Terry what hole the 20" E-TEC is mounted in on his '76 Seafari - no trial and error process required! To raise motor, just lower tongue jack, put a block of wood under skeg, loosen lower mount bolts, pull top bolts, then crank up tongue jack till top bolts align with desired mount hole, and then reseal and reinstall bolts.

The Seafari will feel different from a MA, not only because it's a bit heavier with most of the extra weight further forward, but also because the hull is noticeably stiffer in bending and torsion. The cabin top and bulkhead tie the two hull sides together, plus the tall coaming on the sides stiffens it in the fore and aft direction. Sandy has said several times that in a rough chop, my boat has a more solid feel to it than his SF model.

The Viper prop is BRP's bow-lifting high speed prop, good for bass boats, but probably not what you want if running offshore in rough seas where you want to be able to hang on plane at low speed for the most comfortable ride, which requires a stern lifting prop. If the 5800 WOT rpm is accurate, you're underpropped, since the optimum is 5300-5500 for a 2007 motor. My guess is that it's a 14.75 X 17P Viper, P/N 176626 or 763914 (2-piece TBX hub). Should be able to see PN inside the aft hub, just above the nut. Next time you're out, try trimming motor all the way down and see how slow you can run and still hang on plane. A 4B Cyclone, probably a 14.5x15P, will hang on plane at lower speed, have a much stronger hole shot and better mpg than the Viper, although it might cost you a couple mph in top speed.

Since I'm a performance oriented guy, I like being able to monitor a bunch of engine stuff all the time, and I don't think I'd like having to keep pushing buttons to switch a chart plotter back and forth between engine info and chart or depth sounder. My 2 large and 2 small I-Command gauges are programmed allow me to continually monitor rpm, water temp, % throttle, mpg, trim position, fuel level, fuel burned and range on remaining fuel.

The model code translates as follows: D=E-TEC, S=Saltwater Edition, L=20" Shaft (X=25"), SU=2007, F=Model Run or suffix. My S/N is 05147575, so probably earlier than yours and it's a 25" shaft instead of 20", so about 15 lbs heavier than yours. Denny

[gofastsandman]

Originally Posted by Bushwacker

Michael, I added a jack plate because it was the only way to get my motor high enough (AV plate is 6.0" above keel!) without a major change to the bracket, but in your case it's a waste of money IMHO. Increasing the setback on a heavy motor on the 20' hull is bad idea because it will make the boat tend to porpoise, make it harder to plane, tend to hurt the ride, and installing a jack plate is a lot more work than just raising the motor a couple of holes, especially if you have a trailer with a tongue jack on it! Just ask Capt. Terry what hole the 20" E-TEC is mounted in on his '76 Seafari - no trial and error process required! To raise motor, just lower tongue jack, put a block of wood under skeg, loosen lower mount bolts, pull top bolts, then crank up tongue jack till top bolts align with desired mount hole, and then reseal and reinstall bolts.

The Seafari will feel different from a MA, not only because it's a bit heavier with most of the extra weight further forward, but also because the hull is noticeably stiffer in bending and torsion. The cabin top and bulkhead tie the two hull sides together, plus the tall coaming on the sides stiffens it in the fore and aft direction. Sandy has said several times that in a rough chop, my boat has a more solid feel to it than his SF model.

The Viper prop is BRP's bow-lifting high speed prop, good for bass boats, but probably not what you want if running offshore in rough seas where you want to be able to hang on plane at low speed for the most comfortable ride, which requires a stern lifting prop. If the 5800 WOT rpm is accurate, you're underpropped, since the optimum is 5300-5500 for a 2007 motor. My guess is that it's a 14.75 X 17P Viper, P/N 176626 or 763914 (2-piece TBX hub). Should be able to see PN inside the aft hub, just above the nut. Next time you're out, try trimming motor all the way down and see how slow you can run and still hang on plane. A 4B Cyclone, probably a 14.5x15P, will hang on plane at lower speed, have a much stronger hole shot and better mpg than the Viper, although it might cost you a couple mph in top speed.

Since I'm a performance oriented guy, I like being able to monitor a bunch of engine stuff all the time, and I don't think I'd like having to keep pushing buttons to switch a chart plotter back and forth between engine info and chart or depth sounder. My 2 large and 2 small I-Command gauges are programmed allow me to continually monitor rpm, water temp, % throttle, mpg, trim position, fuel level, fuel burned and range on remaining fuel.

The model code translates as follows: D=E-TEC, S=Saltwater Edition, L=20" Shaft (X=25"), SU=2007, F=Model Run or suffix. My S/N is 05147575, so probably earlier than yours and it's a 25" shaft instead of 20", so about 15 lbs heavier than yours. Denny

The Seafari has more beef in many places than the SF. The MA as well with that big box cap.

I can not scream loudly enough how much prop design can affect your smile.
I had a pos house mouse eared Mich Match on Wide OPen when I got her.
She went to the sky on hole shot and porpoised a bit.
Felt like some cruel joke conjured on the island of misfit toys.

When I tried a Mirage +, I thought this cant be happening.
It was that dramatic.
My ass lifted, and she just screwed.

As freaks, we are constantly chasing props.

If you are trimmed in and still losing the horizon on lift off,
you have a bow lifter.

I like getting some speed easily on take off and then come up.
Be nice to your wrist pins please

It`s a SeaCraft, not a Paramount, no need to carry the bow.

[Vezo, Part II]

Well after hours of watching, more Chic Ultras, and the skeg slowly lowering, I decided to try the manual bilge switch, which was hard wired, and did not require the ignition. I cannot explain this exactly, but I found a significant leak at the elevation of deck and live well. Decided to pull the boat, check tide. Yup 20 minutes to low. Jackass Jockey Game Time.

Got the hull cradled and started winching up to bow eye, with second axle hanging over the end of ramp and she is full. Slowly wait and use the tide to get her up.

There is a bronze thru hull fitting for filling bait well. Found that in line valve OPEN, assuming from sea trial. Once closed, manual bilge began pumping out properly. Now the float switch did not appear to be functioning. But she eventually pumped herself dry and once on the trailer I pulled her above high tide line and removed the Garboard plug. Not sure how much rain we received overnight, but I know what I would have found this morning. She was sinking and I was friggin watching!!!

Hey Magillicutty, the dock is nice, but not exactly the reason I stole this foreclosed HUD home, haha.

[Capt Terry]

Michael-
After the dealer raised the engine twice I raised it to hole #4 (the bottom hole) using Bushwacker’s method. The engine is at max height without re-drilling the transom. My transom has two sets of mount holes: the original from the 1976 Merc 150, then the last must be from the 1985 Merc 150. The current top hole is about two inches above the original set. A more precise way to tell you where the engine is, as close as I can measure it, is 2" higher than if it were sitting flat on the aluminum extrusion on top of the transom. Measuring the height of the A/V plate above the keel may not be too accurate the way my boat sits on the trailer: my results about 1.5". I don't have a current photo of the A/V plate underway, but it looks similar to what Bushwacker recently posted. I could possibly go another hole higher, but am satisfied with the current results. I am running the ETEC 150 HO which at WOT should run 5500-5600 and up to 5800 rpm lightly loaded. For watersports I am running a SST High Five 5B 13.5" x 17P prop at 41.2mph at 5710rpm WOT (lightly loaded, two people, half tank, bimini down). Last week with three people in the boat, lots of food & beverages, and barefoot boom I pulled a 185# barefooter at almost 40 mph. .Same engine height and similar test conditions on the SST Cyclone 4B 14.5" x 15P was 40.8mph at 5280rpm (so the speed was not bad, but the engine was not reving fast enough The performance of the Cyclone was good and it picked up speed much more quickly than the High Five, but it gave me more speed variation at 18mph for wakeboarding and did not rev high enough. Bushwacker liked my Cyclone on his ETEC 150 on his Seafari. The Powertech 4B 15” x 15P (same conditions again) gave me 38.0mph at 5340 rplm WOT.













.

[Vezo, Part II]

If not for my friend Paul, I'd never have. Been sitting here here for beer yesterday. Today she would have been on the bottom. Pulled her last night and she survived the BS rain. Today, I fortunately advised my new girl aft portion of skeg should be above WL 1 inch. Go to make a cocktail and BeeAtch lowered to trim mode. Electronically or hydraullicly. She's going back to the trailer until I can get this sh!t figured..

F'in Weber activates up at same time. Hardly used. One in SC, one in HB. Only one of two models made in China... Friggin hungry!

[McGillicuddy]

Sheesus, Part II you're killing me - your own ramp too? and drive thru storage? I gotta get out of So. Cal... Is that at Hernando Bch?

The guys made a good point about how to gain a hole-shot. Swap the prop.
In the BRP world, the Rebel or the Cyclone will serve you better in every way except top speed. As Denny and Sandy noted, the Viper is a bow lifter. SeaCraft wants its tail lifted - the hull does the rest.

[Vezo, Part II]

Shit, is the Viper seriously a bow lifter? No wonder it's requiring some tab no matter of engine trim.

Discovered a non- contacting service in the Perko battery selector. Go straight to Both then back to One!

Discovered raw water pick-up sea-cock was also open, as well as the plastic T inline valve. Yesterday's rain seems to have had no effect on skeg lowering. At rest, I think she slowly took water on up to the base of the on deck live well. Then began leaking into bilge. She would have kept this up until she was on the bottom this morning.

Filled boat with freshwater waiting for float to activate, when I found number one batt not connecting, flipped to both and bilge activated. Now I have no reason to believe float is hard wired. Is this even possible???
Thank God I bailed on the Bimini trip a while back!!!
Hey Gillie, still some deals out here in HB!.!

[Bushwacker]

Originally Posted by Vezo, Part II

. . . is the Viper seriously a bow lifter? No wonder it's requiring some tab no matter of engine trim.

Discovered a non- contacting service in the Perko battery selector. Go straight to Both then back to One!

Discovered raw water pick-up sea-cock was also open, as well as the plastic T inline valve. Yesterday's rain seems to have had no effect on skeg lowering. At rest, I think she slowly took water on up to the base of the on deck live well. Then began leaking into bilge. She would have kept this up until she was on the bottom this morning.

Filled boat with freshwater waiting for float to activate, when I found number one batt not connecting, flipped to both and bilge activated. Now I have no reason to believe float is hard wired. Is this even possible??? . . .

The Raker is actually BRP's bass boat prop, so even more of a bow lifter than the Viper, which is listed as a "general purpose bow lifting prop" on Pg 10 in BRP's prop selection guide. However as Gillie says, the 20' SeaCraft hull was designed for a light motor of 300 lbs or less, but since most modern motors in the 100-150 hp range tend to weigh around 400 lbs or even closer to 500 lbs on many 4-strokes, the heavier motors work best on a SeaCraft with a stern lifting prop that will help offset the engine weight. I didn't recommend the Rebel, because although it is a stern lifting prop with very large heavily cupped blades much like the Merc Mirage, my dealer says the small block 2.6L V-6 can't spin it fast enough, so it's typically used on the bigger 3.3-3.4L 200-300 hp motors. I've run the 14.5" x 15" pitch Cyclone and it turns 5400-5450, so it's the perfect prop for a an early 150 E-TEC on a Seafari. The optimum rpm on later 150 E-TECs is higher, up around 5500-5800 so the Cyclone has a little too much pitch for them.

I forgot that your boat evidently has a leaning post-type live well, so I'd put some water in it and make sure it's not leaking into the bilge. I think a bilge pump should be wired direct to the battery with it's own separate fuse, because I like to be able to shut off everything else on the boat with the battery switch when I'm not aboard.