1988 seacraft rebuild

[strick]

Originally Posted by No grave but the Seacraft

The black line on the shear is what will be removed to increase the overall aesthetics of this timeless hull design.

There are those of us that think the aesthetics are perfect the way they are ...never the less welcome to the forum. Were looking forward to your resurrection of the old gal.

strick

[dirtwheelsfl]

Originally Posted by strick

There are those of us that think the aesthetics are perfect the way they are ...never the less welcome to the forum. Were looking forward to your resurrection of the old gal.

strick

Im with ya... I love cutting stuff up but i wouldnt mess with an already perfect sheerline!

I like the bracket. No bolt on aluminum crap to corrode

[No grave but the Seacraft]

Thank you. I don't know that I would cut it if were a potter hull

[No grave but the Seacraft]

So I took most of the holiday weekend off working on the boat to do a little fishing but got back at it on Tuesday. I was able to get the transom doubled up with a layer of 1700 between them. Its been glued, filleted, tabbed and layered with a single sheet of 1700. It will get at least two more layers before it's done. The outboard bracket has received the same treatment except the motor mount is 3 layers of 3/4" coosa thick while the bottom will remain a single layer. The tub will be at least three layers of 1700 inside and out. I will also be adding two stringers inside the tub before the swim platform goes on.

[No grave but the Seacraft]

So I did it! I cut 3 1/2" off the shearline of the boat. Starting at 128" from the transom it transitions from 0-3 1/2" over the span of 4 feet and leveling off towards the stern. I've included some pics of the boat that inspired this project. There's a video explaining the guys process on Florida Sportsman Project Dreamboat. https://youtu.be/mwYNLp7HAZI?t=506 The link should start at the segment featuring the boat.

[strick]

Nice looking boat...notice how high the engine is with the jack plate for it to function properly...I'm wondering if he added the jack plate after he tested the boat with the motor mounted to the bracket? Good choice with the Df 140.. No turning back now!

strick

[No grave but the Seacraft]

I noticed that too. I couldn't find any specs on existing brackets so I had to guestimate the proper dimensions. I built tub 28" wide with a 28" setback, 4 1/2" up from the bottom of the hull and a full 25" high for the motor mount. I'm hoping there will be enough adjustment on the motor that I won't need a jack plate.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Hes got some time in that one! Wish they showed more detail stuff instead of talking heads. Your cut looks a bit better with the extra 8” of hull versus the older hulls.
Kinda late now but i would make the setback just enough to be able to get full tilt. With the now shorter transom your setback coulda been a bit shorter im thinking. Too short though and the platform would lose too much real estate...

[strick]

Yea Suzuki has a diagram for their 140 that gives the exact dimensions of the motor tilted up so you can get your bracket set back. I Have not been able to find diagram for mercury motors... I put a little manual jack plate on my last bracket to get the height right

Struck

[No grave but the Seacraft]

It stopped raining for a bit today so I got some fiberglassing done. I got the second layer of 1700 on the transom as well as the outside of the outboard bracket. The inside received it's second and third layers. I'm calling the transom done except for a 1 1/2" x 4" x 72" piece of coosa that will sit in the notch where the stringers meet the transom.The bracket will get a pair of stringers tying the motor mount to the transom then one more layer of glass before the sanding and fairing begins.