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T-Man
Thanks for those pics..a boot is a great idea for wiring exiting the floor..as well as mounting blocks..I will add it to my list. Looking forward to measurements ...I am still a long ways off though from a windshield so no rush!!!! UPD did a great job!! Thanks again -Fred Last edited by fdheld34; 02-26-2012 at 07:02 PM. |
#2
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T-Man...
Could you also post the part # for your rub rail setup..and where you purchased it.. I am having a hard time locating a close match??? I just ordered my Jim Black hatch from GLS... Thanks so much -Fred |
#3
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Fred, I actually got the info. on the rub rail digging through the Forum. I ended up getting it from West Marine because it was chepest there plus it was in stock. It's a Taco Marine product, there part number is #V11-9795BBK502-2. The WM number is #9108283. It was $248.34 with shipping and a $20 discount. It's the complete kit. Good luck, T-Man (Manning).
PS..if y'all know anyone looking for a nice 1975 18 ' a friend of mine is selling it. It is in real good shape and ready to fish. It's located in Lafayette, LA. |
#4
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Well....got some done today....rained off and on and lack of motivation on my part.....
I did get my rub rail, hatch for splash well (thanks to "T-Man") and low profile antenna in the mail... Today I removed the console and fuel tank hatch....fuel tank has no date on it ... going to pull it and check for pitting, leaks etc. here are some pics of my slow progress. I plan on running up to HD and get a 4x4 and then use my comealong to pop tank out...hopefully...... I obviously have to recore fuel tank hatch and do some work on console..I am going to bring console back to a blank slate and I have new gauges and a lowrance etc. etc. I am going to mount in console. Hopefully tank is ok!!!! I am going to pressure test tank as well after I do some research on proper way to pressure test!!! Last edited by fdheld34; 03-11-2012 at 05:42 PM. |
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I am installing my new 47 gallon aluminum fuel tank next weekend. posted another topic regarding tank install questions.
Last edited by fdheld34; 03-20-2012 at 10:03 AM. |
#6
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I picked up my fuel tank from my friend's fabrication shop and got busy with prepping and priming it today. I was able to get some great deals on line for Interlux InterProtect 2000E and my local West Marine Store matched it.
I have made several posts to show my process up to this point. Pictures of new tank and my helper and owner of the boat!!!!!!! Last edited by fdheld34; 03-24-2012 at 05:27 PM. |
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I then cleaned up (sanded and wiped down with acetone) the coffin and got my poly strips secured with 5200 per Pascoe.
I was able to get these strips at Home Depot for a cheap price. I did not measure just eyed where they should go and left them a couple inches on each end shy of the length of the tank. Here are pics showing cleaned up coffin with the strips bedded with thick bead of 5200. Last edited by fdheld34; 03-26-2012 at 07:53 AM. |
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Next, I roughed up the aluminum tank to accept the Interlux InterProtect 2000E (Thanks to all who gave me pointers on this process, and the proper material to use). I was going to use an aluminum etch wash...but ..I remember restoring an MGA with my father...the MGA had aluminum fenders and the aluminum etch turned black in high humidity...not bonding correctly to the aluminum. I opted, per others and the tank fabricator, to rough up the tank and then apply the product.
See pics.... Last edited by fdheld34; 03-24-2012 at 08:53 PM. |
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I also installed screws on my sawhorses to keep the majority of flat area suspended above the sawhorses...
Further, I did not use a roller pan...I just dumped the Interlux onto the surface and rolled out with a roller...I did the underside first..flipped the tank and then did the top and sides..I got the interlux on there quite thick etc. Here are pics. |
#10
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Was your hatch completely flat? Just be sure when you put the new core in that it does not distort the original profile. You might lose the camber if you place weights on the ply wood to hold it down.
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