1973 Tsunami to Center Console Conversion

[jgrisham]

Kneedeep, do you mind telling me what type of resin you used on the rails? I am sure epoxy is recommended but will polyester/vinylester get it done and stand the test of time? Its a pretty big fabrication to use all epoxy!

[jgrisham]

One more thing, will I be better off hand fairing with a long sanding board or is there a preferred power tool for this?

[CATmech945]

You can use an automotive engine, I would just suggest changing the camshaft to a marine profile. Usually a high lift, short duration with a stretched out lobe separation designed for torque. Not to go all technical, but usually an R/V cam works well. You don't want a choppy cam like in a street car because they only flow well at higher r.p.m.'s. You'll want the cam to be smooth and designed for power between idle and say 4800 r.p.m. or so. It's way cheaper to change a cam than buy a "marine" engine if you're trying to save a few bucks. Use marine electrical equipment such as starters and ignitions like blue heron said but you can use an automotive engine. I've been doing it for years. Look into freshwater cooling though. It's worth the thousand bucks or so.

[jgrisham]

How about this: 3/8 Coosa, glass on one side, fair, and call it a day? Do you think the coosa would be strong enough glassed on one side? Sorry for all the questions, just have a lot of things to consider.

[jgrisham]

Thanks CAT, sounds right.

[krisis7]

I can get Chevy Marine V8 long blocks for a good price with water pump and all, approx 4500-5000, new from chevy

[kneedeep]

j i have never used expoxy on anything i have ever built. as far has the fairing goes yes on the long board, air file too if you have a big compressor. i would not go with 3/8 coosa with glass on one side only. 1/2'' or 3/4'' nida core or divenacell would be good for that part of the cap with layers of 1708. i wouldn't cut corners with the glass work, people stand ,sit and jump off the dock on to that part of the boat. it's a large area that is not supported by much other than the front bulkhead for along way. everything you build should be glassed on both sides composite or wood a sandwich construction is by far better. the side where the bolster goes is just 1708 glass 3-4 layers, the white is the nida core later covered with glass.

[jgrisham]

I guess there is no getting around popping the cap,

[kneedeep]

j once you remove the drain tubes in the back corner boxes,the rub rail & a few other screws that hold cap,inerliner& hull together the cap comes off easy. but you can do 90% of the work to the cap before you have to remove. build your one off mold,lay your glass & do all your fairing. remove the cap,flip it over and finish the glass work,flip it back over and prime & paint while it's off the boat.

[jgrisham]

Kneedeep, did you use a release agent on the PVC? I'm kinda stuck NPI on if I can get away without it. I don't see how I can effectively remove a release agent without water logging all my work. I'd like to glass up the inside of the vertical and possibly add some stiffeners. Seems like a long unsupported run. BTW I chose A/C plywood, mostly for cost and availability, as long as I use care I think it will outlast me. Here's some pics of the slow progress