Here We Go Again

[glow]

Thanks for the comeback Strick, I really appreciate the info. Keep up the great craftsmanship. Greg

[glow]

Strick,

When you made the series of hatch molds you mentioned using melamine which I am familiar with and MDF. Is MDF marine douglas fir? Please let me know. This is the first time I am going to attempt making a mold and your knowledge is invaluable to me. Thanks again, Greg

[strick]

MDF = medium density fiberboard. It's like particle board but the particles are smaller and it's smoother. Use it in molds but never put any inside the the boat.. it's junk and will fall apart.

strick

[NoBones]

Strick, you make me want to go to my barn and douse my boat
with gas and light a match to it...
You have done a phenomenal job!!!!!!!
I really think you missed your calling in life or
maybe not. You have the talent to save animals and SeaCrafts!
I really hate to see this thread end. It will go down in
the CSC history book as the best. Dad gum shame we live 5000
miles apart cause I would be like stink on poop at your place......
See ya, Ken

[glow]

Thanks for the info. Strick. When you used it as the side border on your mold did you have to put anything on it beside the wax coating to prevent the resin from penetrating it? Also, how do you like the partall wax in comparison to mold release when laying up inside a mold? Thanks for your knowledge once again. GOD Bless, Greg

[strick]

Ken thanks for the nice comments. You would be welcome at my place anytime.

Greg- for the molds I just wiped partall on the mdf sides and melamine board. On bigger molds with mdf it is probably a good idea to use the partall and then spray with pva mold release. You can see what happened to my bracket.


I've been cutting lots of holes in the boat these past two weeks. Despite full protection clothing, hood,goggles, and respirator, I've still managed to get a little itchy. I need to invest in some kind of vacuum system one of these days.

At any rate here are a few pics.

The bilge had gotten really dirty over the past few months so I washed it and put another coat of epoxy primer down. I also painted the inside of the transom.




It was finally time to install the fuel tank. It was a real pain getting the fuel hose up the side of the boat to the gunnel cap. My forearms still hurt. Plus the small access hole provides very little room to work with. The endoscope is out because I dropped my small 1/4 inch drive ratchet deep into the bowels of the stringers. It's sitting along side the outermost port stringer. There was no way I was going to get it back. I just wanted to see that is was not going to cause any problems rubbing on anything and it's not. I'm hoping that it will slide back toward the transom in time were there is access under the scuppers and I can retrieve it.




The tank is bonded to the tank supports with liberal amounts of 5200. The rear of the tank has a flange that screws into a cross member that you may remember I glassed in place a while back.




Shot showing the small area I had to work with:




Tank in place:




seacock, bait well pump and bilge pump installed:



Airmar transducer and intake for the seacock:




If you notice I have the intake pointing toward the stern. In the past when I've pointed it toward the bow I've had a problem with water being forced into the system when under way and overflowing the bait tank. Well see how this works. Maybe I should have pointed it sideways

Access hatch for the fish box plumbing:




I go tired of working on the boat so I started hacking away at the consel:




Theres 8 rod holders on it... 4 on each side plus the 6 that are on the boat makes 14 total on the boat. Thats probably a hundred pounds of rod holders!

Consel all dolled up:



I put the consel in the boat because I need to start thinking about how I'm gonna do the LP. Also I need to make a cut out in the fuel hatch which will be inside the consel for the rigging.



More pics of how she will look:




That Perko black plastic latch on the anchor locker in the last pic is there temporarily for my sanity. The ss one that I had bought ended up not working so I have to find a ss latch similar to the Perko.

On the to do list for the next couple weeks:

1. install the rub rail
2. finish out inside of the anchor locker
3. glass some mounting pads in the cc for electrical buses etc..
4. install the transom center access door
5. cut rigging hole in fuel hatch
6. run rigging from cc to transom
7. cut holes in transom for rigging
8. install trim tabs

well theres more but you get the picture.


strick

[Old'sCool]

Everything looks FANTASTIC!!!! I have my doubts on the high speed pick-up though. I have never seen one facing rearward and can't understand how it would work while under power. I have a "control" ball valve at the entrance to my tank and (2) 1 1/2" drains to regulate water flow. Works great. Keep up the great work!!!

[mbo_1971]

getting weepy eyed as this project is quickly coming to a close. Who is going to pick up where Chuck is going to leave off?

[LiveLine]

Incredible job

[glow]

Strick,

Thanks for your insight. I am designing the gunnel molds for my father's boat and will most likely begin fabrication this weekend. I just need to get my Super Sculpey shipment and will be ready to rock. My dad's boat had the clamshell pickup for his baitwell pointing to the stern to drain the livewell while underway. It had a stainless and rubber expansion plug to seal it. The front of the baitwell just had a straight through hull fitting and the same expansion plug set up in it. We just had to pull the plug and the baitwell would fill up like a whale spouting. The boat looks phenomenal! My father and I have learned alot of finishing work as well as the molding techniques from your build up and will implement them in our rebuild. Thanks once more for all the help and advice. GOD Bless, Greg