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  #31  
Old 02-29-2008, 11:49 AM
GradySailfish GradySailfish is offline
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Join Date: May 2005
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Default Re: Teak

Gofast,

The brushes should be good as long as their clean. As a matter of fact, the older and more "used" they are the better they are, kinda like a baseball glove. I've been told to buy a good brush and take care of it and it will serve you well and last a long time.

As for spraying, I would not hang the pieces vertically, instead I would lay them down flush so that when you spray the paint it levels out as flat as possible.

The Harbor Freight guns are actually quite good. Although I have no personal experience with them, I know Warthog from ClassicMako uses them and is very happy with the results. I think the gun he uses sell for $ 69 bucks. Contact him for details.

When it gets a bit warmer I'll spray my teak.

Bushwacker, I can only imagine how attached you are to your boat after 30 years. I've had my Grady for 9 and I feel joined to the hip with her, so much so actually that I feel really bad about selling her to "upgrade" to a 26 Fotier.

AVK
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  #32  
Old 02-29-2008, 08:59 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
Posts: 4,586
Default Re: Teak

Thanks GSF,

How do I fix a hairline crack by a screwhole. It`s attached at both ends.

Joey was that Bristol Finish on the Jenna Mae?

Has anyone used Bristol Finish?

GFS
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  #33  
Old 02-29-2008, 09:29 PM
joey joey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Key West,fl
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Default Re: Teak


Yes that's Bristle on the Jenna Mae,about 6 coats I think.I really like the stuff.You can recoat it in about an hour,you don't have to sand in between coats,it held up pretty well down here in the intense summer sun and after about 30days you can clear coat it if you want,but I didn't on the Jenna Mae.It's a two part varnish and goes on real nice with a sponge brush,I think it's about 60.00 a quart.
You can make a filler for the crack by mixing teak saw dust and a clear drying glue(I use Elmers)and just fill the crack,let it set up and sand it smooth.You will be able to see it,but it won't jump out at you like the crack would.

I just went and looked at the boat on my site and let me say that she has Bristle on the ToeRail,Transom,Helm Pod and Brow Cap.The covering boards and cockpit sole are teak and just oiled.
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  #34  
Old 03-01-2008, 12:10 AM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
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Default Re: Teak

Yeah, I was at their site and they have lots of tips and info.
Maybe that`s the way I`ll go. Did you use the honey or clear?
Any thoughts all? Thanks for the crack Capt.
GFS
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  #35  
Old 03-01-2008, 08:46 AM
joey joey is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Key West,fl
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Default Re: Teak

I use the clear. I would say again do it in the shade and keep the coats thin, it will run and get little bubbles if you try to put on too much .Always go from dry to wet and put on a bunch of coats,I'd say 10 and forget about clear coating with the AwlGrip.If you mix up more than you need for a coat and you plan to keep at it that day,put the unused in the fridge until your ready for the next coat.That will slow the kick time and extend your pot life,just warm it in the sun to get it easy to apply again.Don't worry about little runs and screw up's at first,build up a good base of varnish,then sand and fair out any mistakes before the final coat or two.
Jump on in there and get'er done,you will be very pleased with the result and very satisfied that you did it yourself!
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  #36  
Old 03-01-2008, 12:38 PM
Bushwacker Bushwacker is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: N. Palm Beach, Fl.
Posts: 2,456
Default Re: Teak

Quote:
Has anyone used Bristol Finish?
In the PBR test reported in 2/05 issue, comments after 6 months on Bristol Finish were: "Film compromised underneath ends of panel". At end of test, they said "No comment because formulation changed", so maybe later versions are better. 6 mo. comments on Epifanes were: "Film intact. Still very good gloss. Some darkening."; end of test said: "Intact, smooth. A bit darker. PBR's top pick for shiny finish." On Honey Teak: @ 6 mo., "Film Intact. Wood grain seems more obscured."; Final: "Two-part pigmented stain darkened considerably."

What I like about the Epifanes is it's a 1 part deal, just open the can and apply. Both Honey Teak and Bristol Finish require a catalyst, which means you may waste some if you don't mix up the right amount. When I used the Honey Teak, I just mixed small batches using syringes, and made more as required to minimize wastage.
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  #37  
Old 03-01-2008, 12:55 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
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Default Re: Teak

TODDS LURES RULES!!!!! Unobtanium obtained! I now have in my humble little hands a beautiful dash and glove box w trim. AND the plexi doors /frame w trim for the bottom of the console.
Thanks for the transport 65 Bowrider!

The junk I had in there was a homemade ply affair that was being held up by 2 screws. One good wave and the whole thing would`ve come down w my gauges and radio.....Why do people do things like this? Glad I kept digging. Like Papa said , you`re never too old for a shovel.

Well, I had almost finished sanding the splashwell , but now I think I`ll get going on the dash!

I`ve been dry for 6 wks now and I`m worried about the fuel. 3/4 full , and run every other week to keep the carbs happy. If I can redo the dash and get the console down , I can slash her and burn the old gas up. Then I can continue. Can I add Stabil to the fuel now and take the trailer round the block or do I need to burn that gas up soon? Off to B.O.W. for beauty supplies!
Thx Joey, Bushwacker, GSF, and all.
GFS
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  #38  
Old 03-01-2008, 01:05 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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Posts: 4,586
Default Re: Teak

Bushwacker can you PM me your phone # please.
Thx,
Gfs
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  #39  
Old 03-01-2008, 04:30 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
Posts: 4,586
Default Re: Teak

I bought some 1x3 4 square teak for my permanent pads for my leaning post From Jeff @ nautical specialties 1 mo. ago.
Thought , It`s not just for breakfast anymore!
He was redoing a 26 Blackfin combi and his joiner work was 1st class. Luckily he was at the shop over by CrackerBoy. We discussed pros and cons. 1 part Epifanes it is. What pushed me over the fence? Never having to strip it ever again? Scuff, recoat , enjoy!
Bushwacker, do you ever get tired of ALWAYS being correct?
Wish I knew half of what you`ve forgotten!

The Epifanes site has all the info this rookie will ever need. Take a peek. I highly recommend it. Just back from B.O.W. <60 clams for 1 qt. and thinner.

Hi Ho Hi Ho....,
GFS
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  #40  
Old 03-01-2008, 09:30 PM
gofastsandman gofastsandman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: W.P.B. ,Fl.
Posts: 4,586
Default Re: Teak

How long can I expect to go between complete striping if I take care of the Epifanes? Perpetually?

I know I`ll get some dings.
Can you spot those?

Would a West base help in the longevity dept.,or cause faster strip intervals?

Now I have to ask myself a question. Self, why are you
doing teak when you`re supposed to be putting your boat back together?

Well self, what was the first thing you did as a child when you got new or new to you toys?

Well ,I ah, ah,took it apart and went to my parts bin to find a bigger motor , better gear ratio, or something, anything to make it better, lighter , stronger , and faster of course.

New toys! Who can resist?

Thx,
GFS

mmmmm toys
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