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#1
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Id get everything up to about 75* and use the tropical for the working time. You can throw some glass in the mix too if youve got big gaps. 2/3 of a gallon is about all ill mix at a time by myself, make sure youve got a big pot and use the paddle like you said. 2.5 or 3gal buckets work well. Probably will end up being at least 1.5gal of material depending how tight the liner fits to the stringers, also you dont need to cover the whole width of the stringer, a few inches is fine. Get it bedded then keep the heat up for a day |
#2
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That’s what I needed. Thank you. Hoping that was the last bilge shot I post.
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#3
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Great job! Looking forward to see how she turns out.
__________________
'89 SeaCraft 20 CC 200 Evinrude |
#4
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I feel like I am reaching a point where the items on the list are a little more manageable and there might be a light at the end of the tunnel. Part of the project was trying to close in the toe space under the helm since there is so little storage on an 18. I tried to replicate the original flange assuming it would go back as is. But somewhere in your head you say why don’t I add a little more scope. So I spent a night making up some 2x2 angle with 1700. Set the console and glued new angle to inside face. Once that is cured I will carve off the flange and try to get a clean edge to caulk at the deck. Also got my fuel tank dry fit and glued up mounting blocks. I’ll get a better picture when they are glassed in but you know where to look for the best example. The gunnel sections are recored with Divinycell and Airex at hardware mounting areas. Two layers of 1700. Epoxy has some white pigment and I’m wondering what you guys think about that as final finish in bilge lockers etc. Just roll on a coat to fill in the weave? Yes, a lot of fairing left.
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#5
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Console is de-flanged. It’s only about 1.25” of deck space but I like the look already and it will be easier to clean. The two small breaks at the back are due to a conflict with rigging tubes which go through back of the coffin. I went conservative on the fuel tank dimensions to push it forward and ended up with a little less than 30 gallons. Not planning any Bahamas trips so it should serve my needs.
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#6
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I like the de- flanged center console a lot. It gives it a real clean line. Nice work
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#7
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Another example of scope creep or just evolution as you wade through the process. I had considered permanently attaching gunnel caps early on but pushed it aside. After grinding, re-coring, glassing, making brackets, scribing, etc., I realized it might have been easier to fabricate new. After looking at the caulk joint with whatever distortion I had created, I was encouraged to grind out a bevel and glass them in. A few more days of work but happy with the decision. I am struggling to get a painter signed on so what’s a little more fairing. Wish I had gotten the 15 gallon epoxy kit when I started but at that point it was just a new transom.
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#8
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#9
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Awesome work! How many sheets total of the 1/2" H80 did it take to core the sides?
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#10
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Thanks. The scored H80 came in 32" x 48" sheets from my supplier. I don't know where you are but it's nice since you can fold it to ship. I think I used 5-6 sheets but didn't go all the way to the bow because I decided to keep part of the liner in place. Hull is about 24" from chine to cap at the transom so I stepped it up a little as I moved forward. Wish I had taken it all the way to the bow but was a little worried about taking the last section off.
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